Brian S.
Yelp
So, I have never written a review on any of these sites...yet I check them often when traveling to a new place. I always wonder about other's reviews as I know everyone has different tastes. I am a lover of good. It does not have to be expensive (often times the low cost meals are much better than the expensive...It just has to be great for what it is).
Anyhow...we were recommended Viridiana by the concierge at the hotel, looked it up online and saw that the prices were up there...but really only as a result of the crappy exchange rate with the dollar.
We ultimately made a reservation and I'm very glad we did.
It's annoying to be forced volumes to find out whether a restaurant is good or not. So...
In short: Awesome awesome food. One of the best tasting meals I've had in a long time. The flavors and were amazing and the presentation was fantastic . The servers were really nice in their own reserved way. Very laid back ambiance that needed some prodding to get going (I'll explain below). Cost: 217 Euros including (2 vodka martinis, 1 delicious Swedish herring special appetizer that we shared, 1 great bottle of Spanish red wine, 1 perfectly cooked and flavored grilled steak main course, 1 amazing stewed ox-tail corn tamale wrapped in banana leaf main course, 2 spectacular desserts (mango panna cota and a chocolate custard), and 2 cups of coffee). I would recommend to any good friend.
Here's the long version.
Leaving our hotel at 10:30 pm, we hoofed it up a slight hill and found Viridiana. As we walked into the intimate space with about 10 small 10 tables, we were immediately hit with a furnace blast of hot air (though no one seemed to notice as most of the men were eating with their jackets on). Thinking that maybe it was us (having just walked uphill in the cold) and not them, we tried to push away the impending freak out and waited for our body temperatures to normalize.
They took our coats and sat us near the window at a really cute bench style table and poured us water immediately.
We ordered two dry vodka martinis (one dirty) and they were made perfectly. After a few minutes, we realized that it was not us and that temperature was out of control. However, the crisis was easily averted after we asked the server (with broken Spanish and hand signals) if there was any way he could lower the heat. Rather immediately, it cooled to a normal temperature.
We scanned the menu and realized that appetizers were the same price as entrees at around 30 euros, so we decided to split one and make it up on the desserts. We ordered wine and our main courses. It had begun.
We were glad we only ordered 1 appetizer as they soon brought out a couple welcome dishes--two small copper pots of the most delicious soup I have tasted in recent history: cream of asparagus with pancetta. They also brought us these great cheddar popover bread balls. This was in addition to the offering of rustic bread rolls with olive oil.
The Swedish herring appetizer special was beautifully presented on a bed of shaved beets, some really flavorful coulis and some frisee. It was also served with a traditional shot of iced hard alcohol. We asked for another plate so we could share,
This was about the time that I realized that it was oddly quiet in the restaurant..with only the din of muted conversation. We asked the server if there was music and with an "Oh yes," quickly tunred to the kitchen, flipped the music switch and the ambiance immediately went from sterile to perfect with some traditional spanish guitar music.
The main courses came next. The steak was presented quite nicely with a baked potato cake. My oxtail tamale (which was not called this, but what it was) came to the table wrapped and tied in a banana leaf that the server ostentatiously cut and unwrapped for me. It was served with a spectacular side of mole. Delicious.
We ordered two desserts from a list of ten. Both had fantastic flavor combinations of fresh fruit and berries, chocolates in various forms, vanilla and fruit coulis.
Coffee was great (hot, bold and the server poured steamed milk at the table).
The service was great in every way. The timing was perfect...neither rushed nor too slow. We always had full glasses of wine, yet never realized the server filling up our glasses.
In summary, the food was amazing. If you can successfully communicate your wishes to the very friendly staff, they are more than willing to accommodate. Price (217 Euros plus 20 euro tip) was well worth the experience.