Jeff R.
Yelp
(Spring Italy Trip 2025)
Remember when Frodo and Sam had to climb the stairs of Cirith Ungol? Quite similar. I've heard about "earning your meal" by doing a workout but this was a bit extreme. First, just trying to find the bottom of the stairway was a task as every map app we used brought us to a dead end including literally a break in a wall where the tide was rolling in. So we used the Force. The Force worked. At least right up to the point where we found ourselves behind the restaurant supplier who, and I AM NOT MAKING THIS UP, is using a motorized push cart with TANK tracks to bring produce, meat, drinks etc, from the bottom to the restaurant. The good news was it forced us to slow down to catch our breath. The bad news is it forced us to slow down and catch our breath. Reminded me when I'm at the gym and I'm silently cursing my trainer to hurry the F-up and get this session over with.
You come to Cinque Terre and you definitely want to combine some great food with some great views. Ristorante La Torre hits both of those at a price. That price was a "I'm lost" and "I'm going to die on this path" hike up winding stairs wondering if the restaurant is ever going to appear. But its worth it.
The view of Vernazza and the neighboring towns and of course the glistening Ligurian Sea are just breathtaking. There is inside dining but thankfully the weather permitted us to sit on their multilevel patio. We did opt for some shade because by the time we got up there it was a little bit of sun and my buttery body was melting. I really could have used some wine but I was dehydrated enough so skip.
Service was surprisingly attentive, perhaps a nod to understanding the American tourist. Is this a touristy place? For the quality of service and food I want to say no. It has been my experience that a tourist trap sacrifices one or both. Yes I was sweaty and wondering how much will a hospital stay in Italy cost me but this was a great visit.
Food: sadly, no gnocchi (which is what I zeroed in on first) related dishes that day. Maybe the ingredients were stuck in the bottom of the hill. I'd normally dock off some love but given I literally witnessed the effort to get supplies I'm not going to complain for a shortage of a dish.
Fritto misto : great lightly fried batter on sardines, calamari, shrimp.
Spaghetti alla Mari (seafood spaghetti): perfectly cooked pasta with generous amount of shrimp, langostino, calamari in a simple olive oil and garlic sauce.
Tagliolino all' Aragostella (taglino with lobster): again perfect al dente pasta in a pomodoro sauce
Pasta (forget which style substituted for said absent gnocchi) in pesto. Simple and comforting.
All the food was super fresh and tasty
Oh and downhill was easy.