Sal Schmidt
Google
Travelling in Gold Leaf gives you luxury comfort and stunning views, due to the upper deck and glass ceiling.
We did the 'First Passage to the West' trip. Current pricing is CAD 5,400 for two people, that's AUD 6,000, that's AUD 3,000 per day.
Let's be honest; this is a bucket list item; the average age is 70+, so the value does not matter.
On day one, you must arrive at the station between 6.45 - 7.15am for an actual 8am departure. The arrival hall has a self-service coffee station; sorry, not a barrister in sight, nor on the train. Stroll outside the train, and capture some pics before the crowds arrive. We had nearly 20 carriages, each wagon seats approximately 60 people.
Here is where the first hick-up started; as we realised the age of the guests, we waited in the rain while the first person was assisted onto the train and transferred upstairs by the internal lift, whilst 60 people queued up to board the carriage. It would have been more efficient to have this guest wait in the buggy until the queues had wained or board the guests needing assistance before boarding time.
Maybe your travel agent can ensure you are allocated seats with an entire glass pane; we were assigned the seats with a substantial joiner between windows. At $3,000 per day, I want that whole view experience.
The service team of four people is impressive, two in the lower dining and two in upper for seating.
The train leaves at 8am; the lower dining can only handle half the passengers, so the carriage is split into two groups for dining.
The first sitting starts at 8.30am, the second at 10am, don't stress, a freshly baked pastry and beverages are served.
The journey builds like a crescendo, starting with views of a working city. Moving through the suburbs, then onto the plains, while slowly making your way to the mountains.
Breakfast was good; each carriage has its dedicated kitchen, so they cook for 60 per carriage. Don't expect fine dining; it's more banquet style, where everyone's orders are taken and delivered as dishes are prepared.
The tables are shared, four to a table, so you meet and talk to great people from all walks of life.
You are given a unique lunch menu. All meals are locally sourced. We found it essential to listen to the crew's recommendations to ensure you opt for the best dishes. A freshly baked cookie is served around 4pm; this was a nice touch.
One disappointment was that you could not select your hotel, ours didn't have a restaurant or room service, so after a midday lunch, it's now 8.30pm with no quick options to eat. You have a very early start the next day. We stayed at Fairfield Inn & Suites Kamloops (2-star).
Day two is where the adventure truly starts. Bus picks you up at 5.45am. We decided to skip the 6.45am breakfast and had a nap, although the day starts with some magical scenery, so you have to take it in turns to nap.
On this day, we spent more time outside in the open-air viewing area, which was simply awe-inspiring.
We scored a table for the two of us, while sipping a beautiful chablis (extra charge) and even slowing the meal service. We could not fault the service. The team was amazing!
We stop just outside Lake Louise for about 30 mins to offload. Unfortunately, you are stationed behind the mountain, so don't expect any lake views.
Tips - Most passengers miss parts due to sleeping because of the 12-hour days, so grab naps in the morning; the best views are on both afternoons.
It's a diesel train, bring wipes, your face will be covered in soot from the engine using the view area.
Bring sunscreen, if standing outside in the view area you'll get plenty of sun.
Always a queue with only two toilets and 60+ older people, so try to avoid the pre and post-lunch rush.
Are you getting the perfect table for lunch? Walk down 5 mins before and request one of two seat tables for a romantic table.
We will leave it up to you to make the decision. We all have different travel styles and needs, and wants.
