David J.
Yelp
An enormous and architecturally impressive museum, set on the edge of Brussels, containing a vast array of natural and ethnographic artefacts reflecting Belgium's colonial rule in Central Africa, better known now as the Belgian Congo.
History
The story begins with the creation of the Congo Free State in 1885, covering what is now the Democratic Republic of Congo (formerly Zaire). Effectively, this was a colonial company controlled by King Leopold II of Belgium and ostensibly established to develop the resources and population of the area. However, it became infamous as an example of brutality towards native peoples and of economic exploitation, and was annexed by the Belgian Government as a colony in the traditional sense in 1909.
An exhibition to publicise the economic opportunities presented by the 'Free State' was held in 1897 in parallel with the Expo in Brussels, on Royal Parkland at Tervuren. This displayed both wildlife and ethnographic objects as well as the main export products. This became a permanent museum after the Expo, but as the collection expanded, new premises were required, and plans for a huge Baroque palace were commissioned from French architect Charles Girault in 1904, which opened in 1910. This still forms the core of the museum.
Today, the research elements of the museum cover anthropology, geology, natural history and history. Overall the museum now aims - in stark contrast to its origins - to contribute towards sustainable development in Africa.
The museum
The museum lies near the end of the tram route through Tervuren, a leafy suburb south east of Brussels. The main building is impressive in both scale and its elaborate architecture, and is set set off by attractive formal gardens as well as parkland.
The collections are, for the most part, still very conservatively displayed, with lots of glass cases containing stuffed animals (although some are in more realistic dioramas) and items such as huge arrays of identical beetles. (Bear in mind that the huge displays still only show 1% of the total collection, most of which is stored in warehouses.)
If that's not your thing, the ethnographic collections are more varied and interesting, comprising everything from clothing, armaments and ceremonial masks to everyday objects and even musical instruments. Of particular interest is the exhibition about the explorer (and finder of Livingstone) Henry Morton Stanley, who played a key role in the Congo's colonial development. There are also more modern video displays, as well as some covering Congolese independence: a major exhibition is planned next year covering 50 years of independence.
It all makes for sober viewing, though, given that some of the tribal groups whose objects are displayed were effectively wiped out during the Free State period, and of course the complex and often violent history of the former colony since independence. The lack of open recognition of the atrocities carried out in the name of the Free State is still a controversial and sensitive subject, however, although the museum has made efforts in recent years to acknowledge this.
Practicalities
The easiest way to get to the museum from Brussels is by metro and tram: Brussels Central. Take metro line 1B (direction Stockel) as far as Montgomery station, and change onto tram 44 to Tervuren. The tram journey takes 22 minutes with 4 trams per hour on weekdays and 3 per hour at weekends. The Museum is 300m from the tram terminus.
If you're driving, it's on the N3 main road, with plenty of parking and disabled parking on the road in front of the museum.
The website gives access details for those with physical disabilities, and guide dogs are permitted inside.