Josephine L.
Google
Not gonna lie: Even though I'd done my research, I still half-expected Gene Wilder to start singing about pure imagination when I walked into Manuela and saw the gorgeous rainbow mushroom chandelier. It felt like I had stepped into a candy wonderland designed by ex-EDC ravers.
But it wasn't a world of sweets, it was just Manuela being a colorful Art Basel of a restaurant. Fortunately, the five-star visuals of this beautiful new outpost from LA are matched by the five-star flavors of their (albeit pricey) farm-to-table, locavorian dishes.
- Cream biscuits with country ham and butter: Rich, buttery and flakey to the point of embarrassment (wear a bib if you're clumsy). The fact that they arrived piping hot only added to the delicious decadence.
- Atlantic tuna carpaccio with pickled chanterelles, salsa verde and mint: I adore all things crudo and carpaccio, but this might be the first time I've had such a dish with PICKLED mushrooms. It was divine, and I was left wondering why no other chef has thought to do this.
- Dry aged beef tartare with Calabrian chilli, garlic aioli and toast: At first glance, this looked like a plainer tartare than recent ones I've had, but there's something comforting about a back-to-basics approach that lets the naturally rich flavor of the beef shine on its own. The light touch of chili was just right for a bit of flavor enhancement, and the buttery toast was perfect to sop up remnants.
- Heirloom tomatoes with sungolds, garlic chives and thyme vinaigrette: As a diehard tomato lover, I've not come across an heirloom tomato salad I didn't like, but Manuela's has to be one of my favorites in recent years. Not mentioned on the menu is that the tomatoes like on a bed of sumptuous, freshly made, basil paste, which just makes them taste even better.
- Pan-seared Maine halibut with summer squash and bouillabaisse: Halibut is one of the harder fish to sear just right, in my experience, but the team here did it perfectly. The bouillabaisse sauce was perfectly seafood-y without being too briny, while the paper-thin slices of squash were crunchy satisfaction. My only quibble is that the halibut and sauce were lukewarm, while the squash was piping hot.
- Romano and yellow bean panzanella: Threw this in because I can't resist a crunchy long bean dish. The beans were perfectly julienned, and the dressing was tart without being overwhelming--a rare feat, in my experience
- Fig bakewell with creme fraiche: We decided to spend our remaining calories on this scrumptious tart, and I have no regrets. It had a moist, caky texture with tons of fresh figs, and the crust was buttery perfection.
For libations, we opted for the gingery and zesty RX Spritz, as well as the green juice perfection of Doctors Orders. If you're torn on which to choose, go for Doctors Orders--you'd have to be born without a tongue not to like this.
And yes, prices are steep, on par with most upscale Manhattan restaurants that are nice enough to impress your i-banker Tinder date on your 6-month anniversary. However, for once, I'm not griping about the dent in my wallet because I actually felt the near-perfect quality of each dish justified the cost. At the very least, I'm already planning my return visit to Manuela, and I can't remember the last time a ~$100-dinner had me doing that.