Kevin K.
Yelp
Lately I have been on a been of a J-Rock bender - specifically my mind has been poisoned by a mix of early Mariya Takeuchi and Vaundy. Mariya mostly because I am a late Showa kid and CityPop is nothing but polyphonic nostalgia, and Vaundy because his songs show up on a number of recent anime (Chainsaw man, Ranking of Kings, Spy x Family Season 2 and Sakamoto Days).
I put on my earbuds, fire up Vaundy's Naki Jizo (泣き地蔵) and contemplate what Shibuya Scramble really represents.
Let's get this out of the way - Shibuya Crossing is a tourist trap. Well, it's not designed as one but given how many tourists wielding selfie sticks cross back and forth repeatedly filming themselves crossing and the number of dingleberries on Go-Karts zoom by in goofy outfits, you wonder why there aren't more embittered misanthropes creating mass incidents.
Naki Jizo means "crying earth spirit" and is Vaundy's cynical retort upon Japanese society. A jizo 地蔵 is a buddhist diety common in Japan in the form of a little monk statue. In Japanese folklore a jizo is a local guardian along roads and/or grave site next to Buddhist temples. They provide spiritual comfort to travelers and protect the souls of children dead or unborn. It's a constant reminder of the six paths of existence that buddhists are both into and the cycles of birth, death, rebirth and the struggles to achieve nirvana, or enlightenment. Jizo statues are prominent plot devices in pop culture retellings of samurai sagas as they are a reminder to a warrior upon values of loyalty, fate and the bushido code - Ogami Itto of Lone-wolf-and-cub lopped heads off Jizo statues on Japanese byways while pursuing his demon's path of vengeance. If a modern salaryman bemoans his or her mis-treatment to a jizo, what should the jizo do? There are plenty to cry about - the rigid seniority structure, the exploitative work relationships (no paid overtime, long hours, tough globalized competition, stagnant economic growth, expectations to drink with coworkers after-hours), rigid expectations of courtesy and lack of work-life balance meant that you are stuck in a rat race within a wheel spinning as fast as the shinkansen. The Japanese actually have a day (aisai-no-hi) where workaholic salarymen are encouraged to leave work and go home to their wives by 8p that one day...which is frightening. My Japanese-American friends state that one of the best things about visiting Japan is the ability to leave, go back to the 9-to-6 hustle stateside and gain some sense of agency back.
Well, look around Shibuya scramble and see if you can see signs of what makes a modern jizo cry - a majority of ads hung here are for non-Japanese firms, daytime traffic are from tourists who wants to see the mad dash to the trains, and aside from the weirdly Disney-like vibe of the place, it's a bit stifling as it looks as if everyone here is either a tourist or wants to go somewhere else. The Hachiko statue there was erected during the militarist years of the 1930s to encourage the locals to learn from a loyal dog who return time and again to wait for an owner who died years ago. Most of the locals treat the area like how us New Yorkers treat Penn Station/Herald Square or PABT/Times Square - a necessary evil you must traverse to go somewhere else, something that must be rushed through to get stuff done. If you are on a date your usual inclination is to get out of the scramble ASAP (like head to Yoyogi park or one of the shopping malls in the area), or head to the trains, or your office is nearby and you are stuck here until you are done. Somehow an image of the locals rushing in an orderly fashion across this busy area has become iconic for Tokyo (I personally vote for the area around Asakusa Engei hall or along the Meguro river)...well, I want to say that it really isn't, but my wife certainly crossed it time and again to reach MegaDonki Shibuya.
Yeah, take some photos of the area, but there are definitely much more interesting and nicer places to visit in Japan. And if you see a little weeping stone statue of a monk near you, maybe dry it out with a paper towel? Thanks.