James West
Google
This has to be one of the most difficult reviews I have ever written.
First of all this place is magical, a special experience, with a strong Scottish connection, as evidenced by the place names and history.
It is geared up for tourists, with trips to predator- free Ulva island, bike hire, numerous coffee shops, lots of trips to book, good hikes and chatty friendly locals. I come from a fishing village, and despite being from about as far away as it is possible to be, there was a lot in common with the culture here.
Then there were the frustrating bits, the car culture, with so many vehicles on an island with 22km of roads, the indifference to abuse of their surroundings, with dumped equipment and decaying tools everywhere.
The most agitating thing for me however was a cat, which caught two birds in the garden of our accommodation, on our final morning.
In a place full of endangered species, which makes it's living from tourists coming to see them, why on earth would you have a pet cat, and let it out to kill indiscriminately?
I recognise that may be hypocritical from someone who flew halfway around the world to be there, but it wound me up much more than I thought it should.
So a mixed bag. So much going for it, with some frustrations I'm finding it very difficult to overlook, despite recognising that the locals want to lead their lives, rather than be exhibits in a museum.