Greg K.
Yelp
A lot of fun!
Food isn't subtle, but works incredibly well. This is the sort of place where you will drink too much and eat too much, but don't delude yourself, you consented to it all, and will stumble back to bed with a dreamy smile on your face. :o)
As usual, learn a few words in German, if only to say hello, and someone will guide you through this cavernous old place to a table somewhere at the back (don't forget bread crumbs for your way back). A good sign even before you order: even the students sharing your table can't be bothered with sodas and are on beer or white wine. Solid, comfy seats, and heavy wood and stone everywhere give it a fantastic atmosphere that's fuelled by conversations - it manages to be lively without being too noisy, interestingly.
We entrusted our lives to the matron-like waitress, and weren't disappointed: my own starter was supposed to be a board of assorted local delicacies (you know the sort: cheese, hams, pâtés, a few vegetables, etc.), but was enough to be a whole meal. My friend had meatballs and, just for the fun of it, was presented with three enormous portions, each with a different flavour.
Trouble started with the main dish: you know you've eaten largely enough already, but that game stew looks so appetizing you have to have a bite - melting chunks of meat prancing about in a rich, lucious berry gravy, you know what I mean? It's much too late to resist, plus the local Veltliner goes so well with it that you have to have another glass. That empty plate can't be mine, it was full just a moment ago!
The waitress looked slightly surprised we didn't go for dessert, but moved expertly to the schnapps list - and we have this one, this one and this one, but you really want this one because it's made in the mountains in a small place that does everything by hand. She was right, it was the perfect ending for the evening, but a second one didn't hurt either.
After that, you forget it's -15º outside and Innsbruck looks even more welcoming.
I'm sorely tempted to go again in the summer, and try the beergarden.