La Malaise M.
Yelp
A very good café on the plaza serving primarily fish and drinks. Live music some evenings.
Pros:
- The food is good. Not elegant, but tasty and authentic.
- Service is attentive, courteous, helpful. Like most places in Brazil, staff will leave you alone until you call them over.
- Beautiful location on the Largo de São Sebastião, overlooking the plaza, church, opera house, and more.
- Umbrellas on outside (street) tables offer shade during the day and evening. Seating also inside (two floors) and a balcony that can accommodate a few.
- The menu is focused on fish prepared several ways. There are a few beef and vegetarian options.
- Menus in English for non-Portuguese speakers.
- Atmosphere casual and "authentic" - the place was packed with locals when I went. The restaurant hasn't succumbed to being a tourist's idea of authentic.
Cons:
- While the main dish was fresh and hot, the accompaniments (example: the rice and beans) were not. In the restaurant's defense, I have yet to find a restaurant in Brazil outside of the elegant range that serves everything hot.
- The price (US$13 for 1 meal + soda) is a little high.
In short, a great place, worth the extra for the good food, atmosphere, location, and service.