Emil F.
Yelp
I went to Terre a Terre with my girlfriend, on a romantic break in Brighton. We'd just arrived in town on a Sunday night, sweltering in the midst of a heatwave, and booked ourselves in for 8:30pm. The train in to town had been delayed a little, possibly by the wrong type of sun, and we called ahead to see if we could push it to 9pm. Unfortunately, we were told, that couldn't be done; they'd be shutting the kitchen down soon after. So we hustled a bit and got there only a couple of minutes late, a little sweaty.
The maitre'd offered us a choice of 'the restaurant' or the empty seating area front of house, and we rather felt, from the minatory look in his eye, that we should go for the latter. It's a reasonably pretty place to sit, though it's possible the kebab shop directly opposite, with its greasily rotating doner kebabs, might discomfort actual vegetarians. (We both eat meat, but had been recommended Terre a Terre by friends; and there are plenty of reviews on here that say things like 'I'm not a vegetarian, but this was great!', so we felt it was a good bet.)
We'd had a look at the menu online on the train, so I can tell you that I had, for a starter, "steamed rice buns stuffed with Szechuan marinated halloumi, with kimchi Chinese cabbage, lapsang souchong pickled watermelon & cucumber, a miso chilli sauce and char-grilled spring onion garnish." The menu is like this: no ingredient in any dish goes unmentioned. My main course was a "cauliflower and ginger bhaji with fresh coconut green chilli curry leaf chutney, tamarind relish with channa rasam, deep fried chickpeas served with nimbu bhat cardamom brown onion lemon saffron baked basmati rice, confit brinjal pickle, chilli slivers, tangy lime and mumbai mix spice dust dressing." I mean, goodness. So I was anticipating great things.
The starters showed up. My girlfriend had what was essentially a miniature version of my main course, which she apparently enjoyed very much. When I took the lid off the little dim sum basket mine arrived in, I was somewhat confused. Where was the kimchi, the cabbage, the tea-pickled watermelon and cucumber, the spring onions and miso chilli? What I saw was a couple of steamed buns containing two small pieces of halloumi each, and a fairly parsimonious sprinkling of garnish that you'd struggle to cover the bottom of a teacup with.
These were nice buns, certainly. I like halloumi, and I like rice buns, and what there was of the garnish and sauce was pleasant. But nine quid? That's approximately twice what I'd be happy to pay for that in London.
There was a longish interval before the mains arrived, punctuated by an episode where one dish was brought out to sit in front of my girlfriend - nothing for me - and then left to sit while they worked out that it had gone to the wrong table. It was removed and I hope the intended recipient got a fresh one, because my girl is an enthusiastic and preemptive advocate of salt and pepper. Eventually my bhajis turned up, along with her (*deep breath*) crispy fried potato, onion and garlic rosti, topped with steamed white and green asparagus spears, salt lemon curd, Cabernet poached tomatoes with lemon thyme oil, pea and asparagus mousse, finished with grilled ash crottin goats cheese, pea shoots and a smoked pea and white truffle oil sauce.
I'm sorry, but the bhajis were pretty boring. I love a good bhaji. I've eaten good bhajis. This was not a bad bhaji, just a bland and dull one. Big chunks of dull cauliflower. A quite nice hot chickpea curry/dahl sort of thing. A bit of rice. Fifteen quid. I washed this down somewhat glumly with a vegan lager that rather tasted like a low-alcohol one.
I didn't hate Terre a Terre, and my girlfriend enjoyed herself - the rosti went over well. I just wasn't thrilled by the food, and the service, though largely friendly, wasn't that snappy. Putting it all together, and then looking at the largish bill - well. going by suggested meanings of the star ratings, I'm going to go with two, because - yes - I've experienced better, and I can't really call it A-OK.
(Oh: as we left, around 10pm, some - admittedly more glamorous-looking - diners were being admitted to the restaurant, which slightly rankled, given the previous strictures on our booking... Ah well.)