Matthew Schropp-Lance
Google
Tetamanu is not a resort or even a hotel. This is an experience in an old and remote village for seasoned travelers in search of the savage beauty of the sea, of French Polynesia, and of life itself! There are plenty of other places on these islands where you can find the comforts you left behind-- but this is so much more. You will ride an angry lagoon to your bungalow where your shower may not work. You will get wet and you will be dirty. You'll eat simple, communal meals and the winds will blast across the Pacific Ocean into your windows every night. But those who can brave these conditions will be rewarded with the best snorkeling and diving on earth; with a return to nature like no other; and with a welcoming and deeply authentic tribe of hardworking people who make it all possible.
We cannot speak highly enough about Tetamanu Village. It's more pilgrimage than vacation, and everything you see is sacred. For our stay, the diving outfit was run by Haramiti (Sylvie) and Alexandre. These two are non-stop guardian angels. We are not divers and didn't intend to dive, but they made us feel so comfortable and found time to "baptize" us amidst a busy schedule of three dives per day-- each organized over dinner every night. They were patient and wildly talented-- every diving group we saw returned with their minds blown. The snorkeling around the Village is the best we've ever seen-- untouched pristine corals, enormous schools of fish and reef sharks. The current is dreadfully strong and a constant, awesome reminder of nature's unrelenting power. Being in the water here is like visiting another planet.
The amount of work it takes to maintain this operation is incredible-- the kitchen staff produce three large, balanced meals every day despite the isolation, and they did it while smiling. They don't have any Michellin stars, but they may as well after you've spent the day absorbing raw, unfiltered nature. It may seem like things are held together with duct tape-- because they are, because you are in the wilderness surrounded by uncompromising beauty. Rosalie is an extraordinary manager who can seemingly turn water into wine-- and so it's fitting that she also runs the bar. If you are lucky, you can integrate into this family for a few days-- playing music and singing, enjoying a special dessert, or just catching a relaxed conversation on the dock. We were thankful for every moment the staff shared with us.
There is no escaping nature at Tetamanu-- you could have a religious experience just looking at the stars without ever getting in the water. Each morning you can visit Sables Rosa, a deserted pink strand of beach that comes from a dream, and in the evening you are greeted by friendly beach dogs living their best life as you watch sharks swarm below you. It isn't about being comfortable-- it's about being real. You may struggle but you will feel alive. Ask yourself: why are you going to Fakarava? It's not for the toilet paper or water pressure-- it is for the adventure. Give yourself over to it and it will give you back so much more. We only hope that we can someday make it back to this sacred place, and that it is never spoiled by luxury-seekers demanding yet another boring beach resort. Thank you all so, so much for everything. Maruuru!