Jen K.
Yelp
I have tomb envy.
And I couldn't help but sing a variation on Chris Farley's little ditty from Tommy Boy, "Little man in a big tomb" when I saw Napoleon's tomb in the Dôme des Invalides at Le musée de l'Armée. It has to be seen to be believed. And I didn't even see it my first day.
I only had two full days in Paris and spent a large chunk of time on both days at this museum. So, I should fully disclose my bias up front. I am obsessed with military museums and have been my entire life.
My first day was spent wandering the oldest wing of the museum which covers the 13th through 17th centuries. I was dropping my jaw in almost every gallery. While many museums have a little bit of this and a little of that, I don't think the French ever threw anything away. It is all beautifully preserved, cataloged and displayed. They even have Napoleon's horse (yes, the real horse). Now I've seen some amazing armor and livery for horses in my day, but I don't think I've ever seen it for camels. All those campaigns in Africa blew my mind.
And I love suits of armor and there are amazing ones on display here, from those worn by the little princes for ceremonies to centuries of different variations used in battle. There is even a breastplate with a cannon ball hole from the Battle of Waterloo. Ouch.
The next large section is the Modern section from Louis XIV to Napolean III (ending in 1870). I returned the following day for Napoleon's tomb and the Contemporary wing (WW1 and WW2). And surprisingly, I found the collections in the 20th century the least compelling. For obvious reasons, the equipment and uniforms became more functional, and dare I say, boring. I've seen this done better in other places and personally it was just a let down compared to the other sections of this museum. Although, throughout the museum, the didn't limit themselves to French military history. There were examples of uniforms worn in other countries as well (Japan, America, England, etc.).
This collection is far from boring and while the galleries were manned by young, disinterested security staff, the Main Courtyard of the Hôtel des Invalides was filled with lively reenactments on both days of my visit. And yes, I do love a man in uniform. These gents (and a few ladies) modeled centuries of military garments and there were even some active duty soldiers with some weapons still in use. They would have some fixed presentations in the main courtyard, then at the end, you could join them for a chat and photos. My boys were terribly jealous.
If you only have a little bit of time, I highly recommend you at least take in the Main Courtyard. They only charge and check tickets inside the museum, so you could enjoy this part of the experience for free. And the architecture, including the golden Dôme des Invalides are worth the effort.
For some reason, I didn't really expect much, so this museum was the unexpected highlight of my trip to Paris. All the things you expect to ooh and aah over, like the Louvre, Arc de Triomphe and Notre Dame, couldn't compare. And I'm a little shocked to say, neither can any of the other military museums I've ever visited on five continents.
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This is covered by the Paris Museum Pass. Both the main exhibits and Napoleon's tomb.