David K.
Yelp
This would be better than my 3-star rating except for serious flaws in one dish that I didn't discover until I had the leftovers the next day. Is this fair? I debated for a bit and decided it was. If I go back I'd definitely try something different and update the review. But that could be a while; I don't get to Stowe often.
It looks like nothing from the outside. You'd hardly even know it was a restaurant. Inside it had a rustic feel, with natural wood throughout, crude wood benches, a fireplace, a chandelier made from a tractor wheel. Comfortable and inviting.
We started with a plate of duck fat fries. Hand-cut, hot, subtly flavored with rosemary and plenty of siracha salt. Very good. They also have 2 other styles of fries as well as poutine with sage gravy. A big serving of which we together only finished about half.
My drink: "The Biggest Pig: An Old Fashioned made with Whistle Pig whiskey, cherry bitters, and a charred orange slice. One of the better Old Fashioneds I've had.
The wife's drink: Toll Road Martini: Green Mountain vodka, fresh pineapple juice, dehydrated lemon, Vermont-made raspberry liquor. Pretty adventurous for her but she liked it.
Her entree: Meatloaf. With sage gravy, seasonal vegetable (broccolini - "seasonal"? Maybe somewhere like Florida but not Vermont in April!), fried onion strings. They accommodated her request to substitute extra veggies for the normal mashed potato, which didn't appeal after the plate of fries. She said it was among the best. I'm not moved by meatloaf so I'll trust her judgement on that.
For dessert we shared a slice of maple cheesecake. Lots of maple flavor, a thick graham crust, a layer of something in the middle (streusel?) for extra flavor, and crumbs (a looser form of the same streusel?) strewn about on top and around the plate. It was excellent, with a firm consistency, easily big enough for the two of us to share, and with the layer and crumbs I didn't even miss the sauce or fruit that cheesecake is usually served with.
Now, on to my entree which I'm saving to the end to discuss. 1/2 duck, served as two pieces (leg and breast). Accompanied by summer squash, broccolini, fingerling potatoes, and an orange demi-glace. Everything served sizzling hot in a skillet right out of the oven. An attractive presentation for sure. I started with the leg piece. I really liked it with its crispy skin, the veggies and potatoes soaking up the flavor from the meat and the demi-glace. As expected that was enough for me that night, along with about half of the veggies and potatoes. So I boxed up the rest.
And the next day is when I realized the flaw. This was just the breast piece remaining. Just the whole, uncut piece cooked to a medium rare. It really was quite a disaster of a dish! Rubbery, chewy, flabby skin and overall rather unpleasant. I ended up slicing it up thin and frying it to improve it. But what were they thinking?! Sure, duck often is served medium-rare, and that's fine - as long as it is sliced! Never as a whole uncut breast! And cooking it to well-done wouldn't have worked for this dish either - maybe for a Chinese smoked or salt duck but not this.
I really felt let down because I was looking forward to the leftovers since it was so good the first day. But the leg piece was well-done (as necessary for duck leg) and so different in texture. If I had started with the breast the day before I very likely would have sent the dish back - that's how bad it was.
Ok I lied. I said I was going to rate it 3 stars. But on consideration of the many good points including every other thing we ate and drank, the good service, and comfortable surroundings I can't. 4 stars. But take note: Do not order the duck - you will regret it!
