Michael S.
Yelp
The Kitchen By Wolfgang Puck was very high on my list of must-visit restaurants in Grand Rapids. If you don't know, Wolfgang Puck has a compelling back-story of how he became the chef he is today (oh, look it up) and has become an inspiring éminence grise in the current cooking scene (search, you'll find him all over, from Jon Favreau's "The Chef Show" to "Top Chef").
I was familiar with his airport eateries but this was my first visit to a well-known brick-and-mortar location. The Grand Rapids locations (both The Kitchen and the more casual Kitchen Counter) are in the Amway Grand Plaza hotel complex. The Kitchen is a clean, inoffensive generic European look that brought back memories of traditional Scandinavian design from the 70s and 80s.
The staff are very enthusiastic, helpful, and a pleasure to interact with - they kept things hopping throughout our long-ish visit. A big thank you to all, especially the Swan Princess.
We started with dessert first, because why not?
The Spanish Style Cheesecake - vanilla bean roasted pineapple within and topped with a hibiscus-strawberry coulis - isn't as creamy as New York-style cheesecake, it's a bit more crumbly, but packed with tropical flavor and scent. All of us really liked it.
The Chocolate Soufflé - with sides of salted caramel ice cream and a thick chocolate fudge paste - was darn close to perfect. Again, loved by all.
The Vanilla Beignets - filled with a bit of Nutella and served with a side of banana créme anglais - are a tasty punch of flavors, a surprise to those who already like the simpler New Orleans beignets rolled in powdered sugar. I would've like more Nutella in each center, and more consistency, but these are nits.
The Roasted Brussel Spouts - with a honey gastrique & bacon - is a dish I make myself. The staff really did a powerful job on this one: the bacon was crispy, the honey just the right amount to balance the salty, umami bacon, and the sprouts were fried right up to the edge of perfect, crispy and pulling the flavor from the leaves without crossing over into the land of bitterness. Damn, now I have to up my own game!
The Truffle [Potato] Chips - with a Gorgonzola blue cheese sauce - were enjoyed although there was some annoyance with the word "truffle" in the description. The flavor was nowhere to be found, there certainly was no shaved truffle anywhere, and the staff explanation that there was "some truffle oil" didn't make anyone happier. Serve the dish, lose the word. There's more truffle evident in my toothpaste. :-)
On the other hand, the Shanghai Noodles blew everyone away. Every element was perfect: the cook on the wheat noodles and the crunch on the wok-fried pork along with the tangy, pleasant mouth feel of the sauce found all three of us pawing at the dish.
The Meatloaf - a mix of beef and pork like the
Frikadellen of Wolfgang Puck's childhood - is a profoundly comforting dish. The potato purée and the port wine glaze make about as nice a meatloaf as I've had; think proficient meatloaf with the glaze of some of your favorite ribs. The one element of the dish that I'd lose is the theatrical tower 'o onion rings - they just don't fit with the homey vibe of the rest of the dish, don't have enough flavor to feel a part of the festivities, and seem like a desperate food decoration ploy.
At first I was taken aback by the safe, pedestrian feel of the menu. There's nothing cutting-edge here, nothing unsafe. Then, upon reflection, I appreciate the gateway into carefully-prepared, elevated dishes of various countries, especially those that can be reliably replicated by the local kitchen brigade. I would certainly time my return visits to seasonal changes in the menu, and I'll certainly keep my eyes out for the next installment of Puck-approved dishes.
This was a great way to usher my Grand Rapids friends into some eatin' they'd not before enjoyed, and there was a lot of good food conversation throughout. Oh, and the coffee is full-bodied, rich, hot, and plentiful. That's a big one for me. Thanks, Wolfgang.