Daniel B.
Yelp
The National is a contemporary Mediterranean-inspired restaurant located in downtown Athens. It opened in 2008 and one of its chef/owners is Hugh Acheson of Atlanta's Empire State South. I visited for a 12-person Saturday night birthday dinner and really enjoyed the food. It was nicely executed and delicious. Some of my tablemates, all Atlantans, said they preferred the food here to Empire State South. In my book, Empire State South still wins by a hair, but there's no doubt the food at both establishments is very good.
The restaurant has a low-key, non-descript storefront. Just look for the small independent movie theater, Cine, and the entrance to The National is located right next door in the same old, white-painted, brick building.
It was expectedly very busy during our visit. The restaurant isn't terribly big. Both the dining room and bar were packed. I guesstimate the dining room we sat in can seat about 50-60 guests. Our group of 12 was squeezed in snugly against a wall as were two other large groups (there were several groups dining this particular night).
The interior of the restaurant has a rustic, homey feel to it. The space has been repurposed, evidenced by exposed ductwork and strangely placed piping and valves. I wonder what this place used to be. There's a small outdoor patio too. Overall, the atmosphere is casual and classy. The place seems to handle groups well and conversely, also looks like a nice date spot.
The dinner menu featured seven tapas (small plates) priced at $5-15 each, seven appetizers at $7-12 each, and five large plates at $20-29 each. Our table ordered a whole bunch of stuff. I tried four of the tapas and two of the large plates:
Tapas:
* Patatas Bravas ($6) - home fries with spicy tomato sauce and aioli
* Hummus with Lamb ($10) - warm flatbread, spiced ground lamb with piquillo peppers, mint and pomegranate molasses
* Stuffed Medjool Dates ($7) - celery, manchego cheese, smoked paprika
* Crispy Brussels Sprouts ($7) - herb crema, sumac
Large Plates:
* Pan Roasted Oregon Flounder ($29) - creamy rice middlins with chard and mushrooms, red pepper-fennel broth, salad of shrimp, blood orange and pea tendrils
* Crispy Pork Milanesa ($27) - panko-crusted pork loin, whipped sweet potato, shaved cabbage with onion and peanut-lime vinaigrette, ground peanuts, pineapple-pickle relish
All of the dishes were beautifully plated and had great presentation. In general, I thought all of the food was tasty.
Of the tapas, my favorite was the stuffed dates. These looked more like mini sandwich bites than stuffed dates. This was because the size of the celery and manchego cheese were way bigger than the dates. Five bites came to an order and they were terrific. Sweet and creamy. I highly recommend this one.
The patatas bravas were fine. Chopped potatoes were served in a bowl topped with a tomato sauce that had a somewhat chunky consistency plus a dollop of creamy aioli sprinkled with what I believe was paprika. Hot, hearty, and comforting.
The hummus with lamb was interesting not only because the hummus had a little bit of ground lamb in it, but also pomegranate as well. These components made for both a sweet and savory (mostly savory) hummus that was rich as well. The pita bread served with was buttered/oiled, fluffy, and crispy.
The National adds a twist to crispy Brussels sprouts by adding an herb cream sauce and sumac, which is a fruity, tart spice used in Middle Eastern cuisine. I thought the Brussels sprouts were a little too oily and heavy, but they were definitely flavorful and the ingredient combination worked.
The roasted flounder was wonderful. This seemed like a clean and relatively healthy dish, but with several different flavors. I enjoyed its light broth. The rice middlins (rice grits or broken rice) reminded me of a smooth-textured risotto. The fish itself was the best part. It was fresh and perfectly cooked with just the right amount of caramelization. The blood orange was a nice touch.
Saving the best for last - The crispy pork milanesa was excellent. The breading and seasoning were wonderful. There were two pieces of pork loin and they were moist and tender. I did have one bite that wasn't good. It tasted off, like an organ or something, but it was just one bite. The rest of the dish was fantastic and colorful. The sweet potato puree was an appropriate accompaniment.
I should also mention I had a special soda from Athens-based New Creation Soda Works, a local company specializing in Southern craft "farm to bottle" soda. It was on The National's menu and was called "Nada," a strawberry and habanero flavored soda ($5). It was outstanding. Very sweet with subtle heat. If you like sweet sodas, try it.
Service was A-OK. No issues.
I'm not sure if The National has its own parking lot. We just street-parked on W Hancock Ave in front of the restaurant. It's metered, Monday-Saturday, at a rate of $0.25 per 15 minutes (or $1 an hour). Street parking is free on Sunday.