"Why book?
This grand dame is Amsterdam’s oldest hotel, with a canal-front setting and Rembrandt history—but a recent refresh affirms it as one of the most timeless stays in the city, with destination-worthy dining and exclusive insider-track experiences offered to guests.
Set the scene
The lobby preserves what makes the Doelen historic, yet feels anything but dusty. Elaborate crown molding lined with gold details make you feel like you’re in King Louis XIV’s ballroom, but mid-century furniture silhouettes and lush flower arrangements keep guests in the present—and tempt everyone who walks through to whip out their phone for a quick photo upon entering. The crowd doesn’t have a distinct flair, but there were a lot of couples in their 30s and older. The vibe is easygoing, not boisterous.
The backstory
As the city’s oldest hotel (with the current structure completed in 1883) there have been many eras to the Doelen. Tivoli marks the latest, with the Portuguese brand taking over the property in 2023 (prior to that, starting in 2016, it was part of NH Collection). The history goes back even further—in this same location stood several other renditions of the Doelen Hotel, the first of which opened in 1815; the case could also be made, staff tell me, that this piece of land was in the hospitality business long before that, when the military outpost previously on this site regularly housed soldiers overnight.
The rooms
Because this is a historic hotel true to its old bones, the rooms aren’t carbon copies—and there are definitely some special ones. The Rembrandt Suite is where the famous painting The Night Watch (1642) by the Dutch Master once hung (and where the likes of The Beatles have stayed since). My favorite, though, is the Empress Sisi Suite, where Empress Elisabeth of Austria (known as Sisi) used to stay in the 19th century and request milk baths, raw meat, and grapes, and (allegedly) sneak her lover in through the window. I stayed in a suite several floors above, which offered unbeatable views and the same spacious layout, with huge windows that swung open and let me look out upon the city. Across all options though, the decor is tasteful, modern, and muted: light gray and white are punctuated by either Delft blue tiles at the in-room bar, or red velvet armchairs. Rates start at $220 per night.
Food and drink
Onsite dining option Omber is a memorable hotel restaurant. The dinner menu is inspired by Rembrandt—a prompt that could feel gimmicky, but totally works here. For the tasting menu, servers highlight how everything ties back to the artist, from a white asparagus soup (records confirm he loved the spring vegetable), to a plate of gouda, fruit, and ossenworst (raw beef sausage) that follows his emblematic color palette. The wine team is excellent—pairings here don’t disappoint—and will welcome you back in the morning, when the top-tier included breakfast is served in the same space.
The neighborhood/area
Right in Amsterdam’s historic center, this location is prime real estate and ideally located for first-timers to the city—or, in my case, someone who loves the Dutch capital and just wants the best access on a return visit. It’s just a short bike ride to the cool shops and cafes of the Jordaan neighborhood, or a quick zip down to the Museumplein where Van Gogh and Rembrandts are on display. But the real charm is being able to walk to areas like Marketplein and Waterlooplein to get a taste of the city between the big attractions.
The service
This service here is friendly and personal—after just a little time spent with them, I came to know a good bit about our Portuguese server from dinner at Omber, and the Dutch hostess on our canal sailing. It felt like everyone took the time to say hi, and know our names. This is always refreshing, and slightly surprising, in a hotel set in such a big city of revolving tourists.
Anything left to mention?
It can be easy to be wary of hotel-planned excursions—will they really be the best experiences, or will you just follow a stream of other foreigners on the well-trod tourist track?—but Tivoli Doelen pointed us to some of the best outings I’ve had in the city. Staff coordinated a lovely afternoon of canal sailing on a vintage boat, courtesy of Leemstar (champagne and canapés included), and set us up with free tickets and a strong suggestion to visit museum Rembrandthuis, where the artist lived and worked. It turned out to be a highlight of our trip; and a great counter perspective to seeing his mighty canvases in the Rijksmuseum." - Megan Spurrell
