Jason G.
Yelp
My partner and I stayed at Tobira Onsen Myojinkan for three nights, and overall, I thought it was a great property and a very good option for a traditional ōnsen.
Reading the reviews, I was kind of mixed and uncertain what to expect. Ultimately, going here for one or two days is not a good investment of time, because you cannot enjoy the amenities and location when you're constantly on the move to get to this somewhat isolated spot. 3 to 4 days is ideal to take advantage of all aspects of staying here.
When we arrived, we viewed both a Japanese-style room in a Western-style room, and they both were gorgeous. All the rooms have been renovated and the attention to detail is impressive. Because of our loyalty status with Relais & Chateaux hotels, we were given the opportunity to upgrade to a Western room. Our particular room was one of the 14 with an indoor/outdoor private bath, which was the highlight of our stay. Having the ability to just hop in your own tub and enjoy the scenery is a great amenity. All the rooms have a bath in them, as do most hotels in Japan for that matter, but the indoor/outdoor aspect was really great even in winter.
The food was also a standout. Breakfast and dinner are included in the rate, which you should factor in when you see the prices. We had two Japanese meals and one French meal, which you can choose to your liking. The Japanese traditional meal was extensive and tasty and quite the performance. It definitely made me feel like I was at a traditional Japanese resort. The menu changes with the seasons and whatever is fresh, and this area of Japan is a veritable bread basket for fruits and vegetables, as well as beef.
There are three main onsen baths for guests, which are segregated based on gender. If you haven't done this type of experience before, after the first day you get the hang of it and what you're supposed to do in terms of bathing before and after. It is a very calming experience, to say the least.
There is also a daily shuttle down the mountain to Matsumoto, which you should take advantage of if you are staying for three or more days. (If you're staying for one or two days, I would remain on the property so you get as much use out of the onsen and other amenities that you can.) Matsumoto is a very walkable town with good shops and lots of history -- perfect for a daytrip and then onsen baths when you return!
We loved Tobira Onsen Myojinkan, and had a fantastic time.