Steph C.
Yelp
We flew into Tokyo on a Friday night, and early the next morning, before we got used to sleeping past 4 a.m., we went to Toyosu Market and lined up for Sushi Dai. We took a cab, as it was something like 3:45 when we arrived, and there was a nice man at the drop-off point who told us where to go to line up for our sushi breakfast.
We found a small group of people on a covered walkway that struck us as shockingly clean (the equivalent walkway, in an industrial neighborhood of Los Angeles, would be blasted with human waste). We were something like #10 and #11 in line, and we made friends with another American couple while we waited. The building--one of several that make up the Toyosu Market--opened at 5 a.m., and we put our name down at Sushi Dai and were told to come back at 6 for the first seating.
We went to the cafe a few doors down from Dai, where Matt got a cup of coffee through a take-out window. The coffee was hilariously small and also came with a lid with no hole, which made it a very difficult takeout coffee. We could've sat at the cafe to pass the time, but we decided to check out the tuna auction.
I'd seen the famous auction at Tsukiji twice way back in the day, and before it moved to Toyosu, tourists were allowed to watch the action up close and personal, from the market floor. Now, you can watch from an observation deck on the second floor, or, if you enter a lottery in advance and get lucky, from a better observation deck that is still more remote than the set-up at Tsukiji. Given all this, we weren't set on seeing the tuna auction at Toyosu, but we figured we might as well, and I'm glad we went.
It was on the other side of the market, through a series of nondescript outdoor and indoor walkways. Toyosu doesn't seem quite as vibrant as Tsukiji, but it's possible we were just there too early in the day. The way to the tuna auction was clearly marked for tourists, and we were pleased to find the observation deck sparsely populated at 5:30 on a Saturday morning. We stood and watched to our heart's content without getting in the way of other waiting tourists.
The auction was fun, even from a distance. Toyosu is one of the world's biggest fish markets, and we got a good sense of the action and industry happening below. The fish were huge and tasty-looking, laid out in long rows with choice cuts of their red flesh on display. We only stayed around five minutes, though, and that seemed like enough.
We walked back and had an amazing 6 a.m. meal of sushi and beer and sake for a remarkably reasonable amount of money (do bring cash). After that, we took a stroll around the rooftop garden, which had some lovely views of Tokyo. If we'd been smart and confident in our post-flight energy levels, we might have planned ahead and combined this whole excursion with our visit to teamLab Planets later in our trip. I'm not totally sold on teamLab, but I'll just leave that tip here, as it would've saved us some cab fare.
Anyway, if you're interested in the Toyosu Market, I'd strongly recommend lining up for breakfast at Sushi Dai and seeing the tuna auction while you're at it. I'm sure it's fun later in the day, but you can't wake up at a normal hour and get into Dai, which is, in my opinion, the market's main attraction.