Adam B.
Yelp
We came here because we read it was Anthony Bourdain's favorite restaurant in Rome. It is within walking distance of the incredibly touristy and crowded Trastevere area ... but it doesn't have that crowded vibe, lines or hoards of tourists. Sadly, while we were there, they were doing construction to the building next door, which was netted off and included noisy power tools ... but we didn't let that stop us from sitting outside on a perfect, sunny day. When the construction is done, the outside will once again be splendid.
Make sure to made an advance reservation ... they offer them through email, for those who are traveling and don't want to call. Even though the restaurant was about 60% empty when we went, we saw them turn many walk-ins away. It is more of a formal policy that reservations are required, it seems, and maybe that's why it is not full of tourists, which is good in our book.
Before I go into the meal in more detail ... let me just say that the bottom line is that while we enjoyed our meal ... the hype is a bit much. Honestly, it wasn't our best meal in Rome but we left satisfied and felt the value and service was great. Manage your expectations and you'll enjoy the experience.
The famous cacio e pepe pasta ...
This is the dish Tony raved about ... and others. Their most famous. I was not great friends with him, but I did know him and we hung out once or twice. A lot of people don't know this but when it came to pasta, he had very simple tastes. It was a comfort food for him. He was incredibly happy eating Popeye's macaroni and cheese ... so it is not a surprise he liked this dish ... which is basically a sharper version of Italian mac & cheese.
It comes in a bowl made from melted parmesan cheese. Given Tony's dislike for culinary 'schtick' (think Guy Fieri) ... I am quite surprised that alone didn't relegate this place to the cold underbelly of his restaurant contempt. The pasta was cooked perfectly ... I would have thought it would be a bit more creamy/gooey. While it did have a VERY cheesy taste, it was a bit on the dry side to be honest. The pepper wasn't very pronounced and the standout flavour of the dish was sharp pecorino romano. I enjoyed it, but it wasn't as great as I thought it would be.
Arrabiata ...
This was hotter tasting than most Indian curries I've had in India. Our mouths were literally almost numb. Make sure you know what you are getting into here with this dish. The flavors were very good (assuming you like very spicy dishes) but this was almost nuclear. Not sure I'd order this again.
Salad ...
Everything seemed fresh and it was just an average, everyday green salad with some tomatoes.
House red wine ...
At 8 Euro per 750 ml bottle, I left drunk and happy. The wine tasted great ... and even better was the price. You couldn't buy a bottle of red wine like this for 8 Euro at any grocery store in Rome.
Fried Zucchini Blossom ...
You order this by the piece. I had one ... it was good. Almost like a corn dog ... the batter was very thick but somehow, the flavor of the flower came through most. I did not have another zucchini blossom like this during our two week trip to Italy.
Dessert ...
Fresh strawberries and cream. One of the most expensive desserts on the menu, this was small strawberries cut up with a huge dollop of whipped cream on the top. Honestly, I thought they'd be a bit better. The main flavor was the cream ... the strawberries were slightly sour. I'd skip this, if I had it to do over.
Overall, I'd 100% eat here again. The meal was fine ... mostly well above average. The waiter was very clinical ... didn't laugh or make small talk. He treated us like a clockmaker would treat a watch he was working on. Fast, efficient and methodical. We actually liked his lack of ebullience. In the tourist restaurants, waiters are trying too hard to be your buddy, thinking if you are American you will tip 20%. This guy didn't seem to care. The atmosphere is great and feels like 1950's Rome on the outside. The memory and the experience slightly surpassed the food, which was still some of the better food we had in Rome.