Wat Umong Suan Putthatham

This is a lovely Wat in a rural, natural setting. The big draw is the “caves”, a small complex of underground passages arranged in basically an E shape (three entrances all leading to one common corridor). The stupa isn’t as impressive as other temples in Chiang Mai. This is a great location when crowds are low, but lots of visitors choke the passages and make it less enjoyable. FYI: the local bats love the tunnels!

Unexpected spot. Been to Chiangmai many times and it was the first time I visit this temple. It was so peaceful and natural. Tunnels and field were jus like middle of no where. It was not touristy yet I hope. What a great experience.

One of Chiang Mai’s most peaceful and unusual temples. A real forest retreat at the foot of Doi Suthep, close to Chiang Mai University. It’s known for its ancient meditation tunnels under the chedi, which were built during King Kue Na’s reign (14th century) and give the temple its “tunnel temple” identity. Beyond the tunnels, the grounds feel like a calm nature park, wooded paths, a pond where visitors can feed fish and turtles, and small “dhamma quotes” signs hanging from trees. It’s quieter and less touristy than the big city temples, so it’s ideal for a respectful visit, slow walk, and a short break from Chiang Mai’s busy streets.

This temple, surrounded by ancient trees and covered in moss, was built in the mid-14th century. It has many beautiful nicknames: Wat Umong (Temple of No Dreams) and Wat Umong (Temple of Enlightenment). In Thai, Umong means "tunnel." The temple was invaded by a neighboring country in the 16th century, abandoned for nearly 500 years, and then rebuilt. Besides the 30-meter-high main stupa, there is a forest of broken Buddha statues, scattered with hundreds of fragments dating back to the 14th century, covered in moss. Standing in this forest of broken statues, I felt an immense sense of tranquility. Suddenly, the world seemed to consist only of me and these Buddha statues before me. And these imperfections did not diminish their solemnity, compassion, or wholeness. The still-warm sunlight of Chiang Mai at 5 PM filtered through the ancient trees. I began to converse with the Buddha. A silent yet profound dialogue. I was deeply certain that every detail of this dialogue would gradually unfold in the future. I only needed to bring hope, courage, and perseverance.

I did a 5-day Vipassana retreat at Wat Umong, a temple over 700 years old, and the experience was absolutely incredible. The place is peaceful and quiet, the ancient ruins are beautiful, and the monks are extremely kind. The alms food is also very nutritive. Everything was perfect — I definitely want to return! I highly recommend it to all my friends. And if you’re traveling to Peru, I also have a travel agency: @dopkertravel — we organize tours to Machu Picchu, Cusco, and all around Peru.

Nice to visit. Some bats in the tunnel. Entrance fee for foreigners: 20B (remember so). But the entrance and ticket counter is not so clearly, no gate. And even i see a sign board written: buy entrance ticket, then i tried to see and looking at the woman inside room, she is also looking at me for like 30 seconds but didn’t say any words. Until my bf come, then someone outside saying Buy ticket Buy ticket, and then we know that’s the place to buy ticket. And that’s also the entrance in a large yard before we find out we coming go the tunnels and ticket just before visit tunnels, the other free visit maybe. A must to visit in ChiangMai as well. There’s 1-2 fruit juice shop outside near bike parking. It’s a nice juice shop and quite cheap 35-55B/1 drink.

After visiting several temples in Chiang Mai, one immediately senses how different Wat Umong feels. Unlike the grand temples glittering with gold or crowded with tourists, Wat Umong resembles a quiet forest retreat devoted to contemplation. As soon as you step beneath the dense trees at the foot of Doi Suthep, it becomes clear that this is not merely a tourist attraction, but a place layered with centuries of spiritual practice. Wat Umong was founded in the late 14th century during the Lanna Kingdom and was significantly restored in the 15th century under King Tilokkarat. According to legend, the king commissioned this secluded temple so that a brilliant yet strong-willed monk could practice in peace away from the city. The result was its distinctive tunnel structure. These are not natural caves but brick-built arched passageways forming several interconnected tunnels, each ending with a Buddha image. Walking through the dim, cool corridors, one gradually feels separated from the outside world, as if descending inward. The movement from light into darkness and then toward the faint illumination surrounding the Buddha statues carries a powerful symbolic resonance of the spiritual journey. Above the tunnels stands a large Lanna-style chedi. Though it must once have been finely decorated, it is now weathered by time, with moss and trees entwined around its surface. Parts of it have collapsed, yet this weathered state feels more authentic and moving than a polished reconstruction. The structure seems to age alongside the forest, embodying not splendor but the quiet dignity of time. Throughout the grounds are walking paths, a pond, and meditation areas, with Buddhist aphorisms posted among the trees. Unlike the ceremonial atmosphere of urban temples, this is a place meant for reflection. The Buddha images, with their elongated and serene Lanna features, harmonize with the stillness of the surroundings. Some sculptures even reveal subtle Hindu influences, reflecting the cultural intersections that shaped the Lanna Kingdom. If Chiang Mai’s major temples project royal authority and grandeur, Wat Umong expresses interiority and silence. Those seeking spectacle may find it understated. But for anyone willing to linger—breathing in the forest air, tracing the darkness of the tunnels, and contemplating the texture of the ancient chedi—the temple reveals a deeper dimension. Wat Umong is not merely a place to see; it is a place that invites one to pause and look inward. What is regrettable is that the ancient murals that once adorned the tunnels have been severely damaged and are no longer visible. Even more shocking is the fact that cement—rather than the original materials—has been applied over parts of the deteriorated murals. Instead of carefully restoring them using traditional techniques and materials, the surfaces were simply covered. At first, I examined the walls closely because I could hardly believe it was truly cement. The decision feels deeply disappointing, especially in a place where the passage of time is otherwise allowed to speak so honestly.

Wat Umong Suan Putthatham is remarkable for being underground. There is also a stupa on the top of a hill, but the temple itself is underground dug into the cliff in tunnels. This Chiang Mai temple is located a bit outside the city so I recommend you dont walk here. Please remember to dress accordingly if entering the temple.