Louis B.
Yelp
Whaleback in 2018 has little to do with its predecessors bearing the same name. Yes, it's the same mountain, same orography, same views, same directions to get there. But although it used to be a for-profit business, it is now a snow sport mountain run by a non-profit organization, the Upper Valley Snow Sports Foundation, and its mission is to make skiing affordable and available to the community and guests - as well as turning it into a truly family environment.
Whaleback, going on 60 years, is a really nice Mom & Pop mountain, one of the last remaining independent small places that used to be ubiquitous in New England. Well over 500 small ski areas have closed down, including Whaleback a few years ago. For the mountain to have garnered a new life as a non-profit with the support of local businesses and financial institutions, is a credit to the community and as well, the many volunteers who labor there.
If you're looking for an upscale experience and fine dining, you should keep on driving on I-89 to these places. The experience here is uniquely New England, casual, egalitarian, no-frills, total community. And it is affordable. Half-day tickets are $30. Season passes for veterans and honor roll students are $140. Residents of Enfield NH pay $110 (less than the price of a day pass at other places). The adult unlimited pass is $400. Plus, season pass holders get three tickets each at seven other small, independent ski areas in Vermont and New Hampshire. Making this mountain into a non-profit has made it affordable indeed.
Whaleback is literally next to the Interstate I-89. Really, like... if you overran the guard rails on the northbound lanes, you'd be in their parking lot. Not to worry, there is a berm in place. And exit 16 off the highway makes a U-turn and takes you right to the lodge.
The one item that is confusing is the schedule which varies by day. Monday, the mountain is closed. Tuesdays and Wednesdays it is open 2:00 PM to 7:00 PM. Thursdays and Fridays the schedule is 1:00 PM - 8:00 PM. Saturdays it is 8:30 AM - 4:00 PM and Sunday it is 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM. Pays off to know the schedule and avoid sitting in your car....
Getting here once of the Interstate highway is but a direct line. There are three parking areas around the lodge. Once inside, the ambiance resembles something out of Leave it to Beaver or the Brady Bunch shows. Not a pejorative, but on the good side. A slide of Americana that was lost. The lodge, with a large fireplace, is beckoning. The benches with the padded faux leather seats. It's cozy, Small. New England....
The guest service desk also serves as the ski school service desk. I bought my ticket and again - old New England. No fancy printed ticket, just a wicket-ready ticket with the date in large magic marker ink. Back to the lodge area and don the boots and gloves and head on out.
Whaleback has an old Poma double chair perhaps a bit younger than the ski area itself. The visible part of the chairlift line is deceiving. It does on steeply and then tapers off but still going forward for a considerable distance. Which means the easiest part of the mountain is on top. In addition, there are two J-bars that go up halfway up the mountain to provide additional groomed trails. to the base.
The trail system itself radiates from the top of the chairlift and affords beautiful views to the North and Vermont's Green Mountains. The city of Hanover and the iconic buildings of Dartmouth College are visible in the horizon.
Whaleback has several beginner trails that I'd qualify as excellent. On my visit, there were a few groomer ruts but none that would detract from a good run down the slopes. Upper and Lower Whitetail were easily negotiated, even in the steepest sections, by beginner skiers and boarders.
The several intermediate runs were also in great shape, although several of the Northwest runs were closed, which is strange, considering the generous winter weather and natural snowfall. Trails like Jonah's Revenge and Fluke were roped off, although they seemed as two of the most pleasant intermediate runs. However, most of the Northeast facing trails were open and in good condition. Spout was indeed a pleasure even after the school groups came in. Their black diamonds are rough, ungroomed, outstanding, and would challenge intermediates and a few advanced skiers.
Night skiing is also available at Whaleback on a few runs. With their afternoon to evening schedules, it's an optimum family place. About forty five minutes after I got there, four school buses offloaded students of different grades and ages, turning the calm into laughter and youthful energy.
The transformation of Whaleback is noteworthy. Yes, it is small. The trail selection is limited. The cafeteria is limited in its offerings. But the place has a vibe and feeling that is both, totally family and totally New England.