Alfred B.
Yelp
Wildflower, the signature restaurant of COMO The Treasury Hotel in the restored State Buildings sits atop, enclosed in glass with stunning views across Stirling Gardens to Council House and the river - the outdoor terrace area where we sat, after our lunch, to have a final drink and soak up the atmosphere without doubt the best rooftop in Perth.
The restaurant itself - a dining area for about 80 people is sunlit and tranquil, with wallpapered pictures of the sky, trees and ocean adding to the relaxing feel of the place; the gracious and welcoming staff bring further allure.
The menu is seasonal - but interestingly they have adopted the 6 seasons of the Noongar people - with the emphasis on European food influenced by native Australian ingredients - bush spices and the like.
At this time of the year we are experiencing Birak, the first summer, or season of the young, when the warmer weather takes hold, with morning easterly breezes, cooling sea breezes during the afternoon, and seasonal flora coming into bloom.
The Birak menu offers 4 starters, 4 mains, a few sides and three desserts - using seasonal fare and dishes that complement the warming weather.
For our lunch on this quite glorious Perth day we chose organic beetroots and a dish of Shark Bay scallops to begin; followed by wild fish in squid ink brioche, and slow cooked pork jowl to follow, along with a side of steamed native greens.
While we waited on our entrées a small loaf of house made fennel, caraway and wattle seed bread was served up, with softened butter topped with shaved macadamia nuts - the bread was aromatic, warm, light, doughy and nutty, the macadamia topping to the butter sublime.
With this we sipped on a glass of Howard Park Jeté sparkling. A blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir the wine has a lovely fine bead, with lifted aromas of baked bread, apple and citrus blossom, while the elegant dry palate is dominated by fresh lemon notes supported by fine acid. A great aperitif indeed.
The wine list at Wildflower has been constructed with thought and care, and includes an excellent range of varietals, countries and regions, together with a splendid by the glass selection - and it was to this we turned for our lunch.
The first of the starters, organic beetroots looked a picture on the plate - different beets, of differing colours, had been cooked in jarrah ash imparting a woody, smoky note that added to the earthy, sweetness of the beets. Goats cheese curd and raspberry juice provided sharpness and a mild creamy note, while a sprinkling of caraway crumbs delivered additional texture with hints of aniseed.
A shallow bowl housed a bed of preserved kohlrabi, sweet and vegetal, on which sat paper thin slices of raw Shark Bay saucer scallops - tender, juicy, exploding with ocean flavours, and topped by blitzed sweetcorn, shavings of frozen buttermilk and creamy dressing infused with native basil - complementary flavours sharp, sweet, earthy, peppery, all combined to produce a wonderful, fresh dish.
We turned now to a glass of rosé - Bird In Hand's D&B Pour Les Amour - a pinot noir based wine from the Adelaide Hills. In a most unusual bottle - designed especially for the wine and featuring a glass stopper - light pink it exhibits an aromatic bouquet of watermelon, cherries and strawberries, with a long, crisp finish full of strawberry and cherry flavours.
Our first main - slow cooked pork jowl came as a strip and a round of moist, meltingly tender pork, a fine layer of succulent fat adding flavour and intensity; thinly sliced watermelon radish, pretty in pink, added its characteristic mild, sweet slightly peppery flavour, with cigars of sweet white onion, and sitting alongside a splosh of Davidson plum - classic bush tucker - acidic, plummy tones abounding, and another slick of creamy sauce, lifted by white soy with its fruity, salty, sweet aroma and taste. Beautifully complementary flavours.
The final dish was, for me, the highlight. A baton of toothfish - encased in a black, crunchy, salty brioche crust infused with squid ink, the fish was succulent, flaky, juicy, tender, incredible. It sat on a bed of creamy potato, alongside a puddle of garlic cream pimped up by the inclusion of crayfish juices and finally a dob of coastal greens - steamed samphire, and assorted native grasses. This was a wonderfully presented dish and amazing in its flavour and textural combinations.
With our mains a glass of Stormflower Cabernet Sauvignon was a great accompaniment. From Margaret River this has classic aromas of black currants, bay leaf and peppery mint, with a rich, full bodied palate of chocolate, plums and blueberries.