Kim S.
Yelp
I'd only managed to get along to Jacques Reymond once but had such a good time I was devastated when it closed. Maybe this explains why it's taken me over two years to visit its replacement,Woodland, however glad to report that I remedied that today.
Woodland occupies the same gorgeous Victorian terrace as its predecessor which is an instant plus. It's name is a blend of the two chef-owners', Thomas Woods and Hayden McFarland, and they specialise in degustation. Happily so do I.
The banner on the restaurant's webpage menu promises "a playful sense of adventure and whimsy" which sounded like fun. I opted for the Concise Menu which comprises seven courses for $135 - $215 with matched wines. No brainer really. I ordered a dirty martini to sip on while I waited for the first round of food and wine. My waiter delivered it in record time along with a tiny ceramic bowl for the pips. Nice touch. It also had three olives so obviously the barman was aware of the old superstition that it's bad luck to serve a martini with an even number of olives.
An amuse bouche of Jerusalem Artichoke soup served in a sake cup along with a couple of little field mushroom croquettes on a wooden leaf-shaped dish arrived immediately after. I'm not a big fan of artichokes, but the soup was creamy and didn't have the bitterness I usually associate with this vegetable.
Rainbow trout with smoked oyster and toasted pumpkin stock, little round potato balls seasoned with soy sauce and a garnish of ice plant came next. The fish was delicate but tasty and the accompaniments suited it well. This was served with a dry white called Les Argiles which my waiter informed me was made by a French wine maker Francois Chidaine in the Vouvray district if the Loire Valley. I'm not a big fan of whites but this one was a good match with the dish.
Roasted sardine, squid, pistachio and soured cream garnished with a couple of small sprigs of rosemary. This looked lovely on the plate; the sour cream was infused with dill and created a white puddle with green swirls when poured around the rest of the ingredients. The squid was done two ways; a subtle, wafer thin carpaccio and much stronger flavoured deep fried squid legs. Really nice and much more interesting than the previous course I thought.
This was accompanied by a Fighting Gully Road Aquila from Beechworth made by a guy called Mark Walpole who is "arguably one of Australia's greatest viticulturists specialising in cool climate viticulture" (gotta love Google ).
Potato cavatelli (little pasta shells that look a bit like caterpillars), field mushroom, and veal sweetbreads in a pool of raw milk manchego sauce followed. Gorgeous. Always been a big fan of offal and this reminded me of the glory days of the Bayswater Brasserie in Sydney; rich flavours perfectly balanced by the light but very tasty sauce. This came with glass of Born and Raised Grenache. I would never drink this by itself as it was too dry for my taste, but it was a great match for this dish as it cleared the palate between every mouthful of this rich delicious course. This was the pick of the dishes for me.
Lamb fillet and confit belly with parsnip, sweet garlic and sorrel was the last of the savouries. The little sausage-shaped fillet was served on a sorrel leaf and cooked rare, the confit was much stronger in flavour. This was served with a South African red made by the A A Badenhorst family. Can't recall ever having a wine from this part of the world but I quite liked this. It's a blend of Shiraz, Grenache, Cinsault and Tinta Barocca and wasn't as arid as the previous offerings.
They finished the set with two desserts. The first was passion fruit, lemon myrtle and liquorice sauce, and meringue sprinkled with shavings of white chocolate. Very light and refreshing.
Staying with the tropical theme we finished with pineapple quince, sesame, cocoa nib caramel with malt. This normally comes with a Pedro Ximinez but I wasn't in the mood for something that cloying so swapped it for a Crawford River Nektar. Very nice. The dessert consisted of wafers of chocolate and sesame wafers covering a cylinder of ice cream and warm chunks if quince paste. Lovely finish.
I really enjoyable my lunch at Woodlands House; great setting, good food, and the service was immaculate. Highly recommend.