"Housed in a converted grist mill in rural Freedom, Maine, this seasonal restaurant from self-taught chef Erin French has become one of the hardest-to-get tables in the country and a touchstone in discussions about the future of American farm-to-table cuisine. Critics and food publications have lavished praise on the dining experience, and the chef’s cookbook has won awards; when the venue opens for the season on April 1 (it’s closed all winter), phone requests flood in until the summer schedule fills. Reservations are handled by mail: applicants must send a 3 x 5–inch index card with personal information in an envelope received between April 1 and 10 to a Mill Street mailing address, after which cards are randomly drawn on April 11 and selected diners are contacted to arrange dates. The restaurant’s website provides a downloadable five-page PDF that explains the earnest but detailed process (including two pages recommending other local restaurants); persistence won’t help and only registered or tracked mail offers peace of mind, so securing a table remains largely a matter of luck." - David K. Gibson