Partisan – Café Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? On the one hand, the place has an industrial loft-like atmosphere, reminiscent of a cafe format more likely to be found in Beirut or Los Angeles with such impressive volumes and huge open bay windows. On the other, it has very Parisian bones: all local stone. The former furniture store was redesigned with architect Randa Kamel and decorator Tracy Zeidan, who designed a 7-meter long counter to accommodate several baristas at the same time. Everything is optimized for space since the café also houses the owner's roasting operation. What’s the crowd like? Trendy, cosmopolitan, definitely on the younger side, definitely on the fashion-industry side. Locals know to come early in the morning because the rest of the day will see a steady stream of people, many who are visiting or have crossed Paris to drink coffee here, pack the space until closing time. What should we be drinking? Partisan is the only specialty coffee in Paris to offer two methods (or approaches) on its menu: Italian and New Wave. New Wave refers to a lighter roast common to specialty coffee that bring out a coffee's aromatic profile, its terroir, and the drying technique that has been chosen. In general, there's more acidity in these coffees. Italian roasts are darker, more robust (and actually represents half of Partisan's orders among clients). Both are used for espressos, lattés, flat whites, and other coffee drinks. Also served: a much-loved matcha latte. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. The owner had Twin Peaks on the brain with the sweets (the idea of a filter coffee and a slice of cherry pie). As such, a duo of pastry chefs prepare recipes that have broad appeal: a European-style carrot cake (that is to say, less creamy and heavy than the U.S. version), a variety of cookies (Anzac, gluten-free peanut, or tahini) and their bestseller (unsurprisingly), banana bread. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Efficient, busy, but always friendly. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Quick business meetings, casual catch-ups, solo caffeine breaks, and stops to pick up coffee to-go." - Lindsey Tramuta
