

15

"At Piatto Romano we loved the magnificent salad of wild greens sourced from about a dozen foragers, tossed in an addictive anchovy dressing and sprinkled with sumac; after a textbook vignarola we skipped pasta for a wood-oven-roasted veal breast in an herby white-wine pan sauce, and the contorni featured foraged greens cooked down into silken, deep-green drifts perfumed with olive oil, garlic, and chili — on both visits we also watched neighboring tables enjoy gigantic carciofi alla giudia and plates of cacio e pepe, and the place was good enough that we bookended our trip there." - Luke Pyenson