Gongura Chicken Biryani at Hyderabadi Zaiqa This small, subterranean restaurant dedicated to the food of Hyderabad may have more biryanis than chairs. One is made with hard-boiled eggs, another with mangoes and vegetables. More intriguing still is the variety featuring a chicken leg and seasoned with gongura. A leaf prized in parts of India for its lemony sourness, gongura wrests control away from the usual biryani spices, and this kitchen is not shy about spices, carrying the rice in a new and bracing direction. ($16) PETE WELLS
