"Two-time James Beard award-winner Chris Bianco may be one of the world’s great pizzaiolos (Chef’s Table, the Netflix documentary on pizza-making, etched that impression in stone), but his talent for soul-satisfying Italian food extends far beyond the parameters of the pizza oven. His welcoming trattoria, housed in a vintage building along a strip of Van Buren, smoothly proves the point. The frequently changing menu, which celebrates the seasons, might offer Chioggia beets roasted in fig leaves and dotted with gorgonzola dolce, or ricotta ravioli with fava beans and lemon, or maybe smoked and braised pork shank, served Milanese-style — all of it simple but mind-blowing. The cocktails are noteworthy, the wine list skews Italian, and the desserts never fail to please." - Mcconnell Quinn, Nikki Buchanan