"Nando Trattoria in Manhattan Beach is the rare LA Italian restaurant that matches the local climate. Perched up on a hill a few hundred yards from the ocean, the salt air blows into this 50-seat dining room as soon as its door opens. Brothers Dario and Alessio Vullo, who hail from Sicily, brought their Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant from Chicago to ritzy Manhattan Beach in 2021 (they also opened in Champaign, Illinois). The experience feels plucked right out of a busy street in Palermo, with pulsing house music, a CB2-style interior, and thick leather-bound menus. The tremendous cooking here defies the dated design and plating. Plush focaccia comes with fragrant Parmesan truffle fondue; wagyu beef tenderloin carpaccio gets a dusting of aged Parmesan and truffle vinaigrette; gemelli alla norcina sports a rich creamy sauce fused with more truffle. Each instance uses just a whisper of the heady tuber, exuding elegance and finesse instead of excess. The off-menu chicken or veal Parmesan is portioned to serve a table of six, while the tonnarelli topped with langoustine and tiger shrimp can easily satisfy a trio. Nando hasn’t landed much recognition outside of the South Bay, but there’s no question that it serves some of the best Italian food in Los Angeles. A second outpost is opening in Beverly Hills in 2025. — Matthew Kang, lead editor" - Eater Staff
