"There’s bad timing. There’s unfortunate timing. And then there’s Gage & Tollner timing. The new owners of the 125-year-old chophouse had scheduled the grand reopening for March 15, 2020, the very day before indoor dining came to a halt. Thirteen-months later, the restaurant finally opened. Now, just stepping into the place, with its restored antique-mirrored walls, golden chandeliers, and ornate wallpaper, transports you to another era. On a recent visit, the room was buzzing with folks dressed up for a big night out, and it finally felt like we were dining in a proper sit-down restaurant. Although the menu includes the expected steaks and seafood towers, we went for updates on classics like chef Sohui Kim’s Clams Kimsino topped with bacon and kimchi, a rich clam-belly broil swaddled in miso butter, and a whole broiled porgy served with creamed spinach — all of which paired perfectly with an ice-cold martini or two. In short, dining here felt like the embodiment of “New York is back!” —Bao Ong" - Eater Staff, NYMag Staff
