"A nondescript, family-run neighborhood trattoria in Testaccio that feels like a movie set — checkered tablecloths, ceramic plates on the walls and a crowded bar — where classic, time-tested Roman recipes are still followed. The gregarious matriarch runs a tightly focused menu of roughly five primi and five secondi, and the kitchen exudes the heady, comforting smells of garlic, herbs and olive oil used to enrich rustic cuts and vegetables. The facade is easy to miss, reinforcing the spot’s unpretentious, generational character rather than any tourist-driven polish." - Eric J. Lyman