"From a storefront a few doors down from Birria-Landia, Rufino Zapata has been serving birria de res for the better part of two decades. He learned to make birria from a friend in Tijuana, long before demand for red tacos started to pick up in New York City. His restaurant, Taqueria Coatzingo, serves the dish as a taco and as a stew with a side of tortillas." - Luke Fortney