"Harneet and Devina Baweja’s widely trumpeted Kolkata-style bakery called Custard didn’t quite come off, but this second branch of Gunpowder has opened in its place at the One Tower Bridge development. Yes, soft-serve custard is still on the menu, if anyone wants a taste of what might have been, but before getting to it, there’s a succession of lively small plates. Grilled wild blackwater oysters are successfully paired with curry leaf butter, fish roe, and garlic; glorious venison and vermicelli doughnuts are pepped up with fennel and chilli chutney. A vivid red pepper sauce brings out the smokiness of grilled artichoke hearts; and the richness of whole duck leg is offset by the sweetness of parsnips and the animated spicing of Andhra tomato sambal. The bright venue is noisy and crowded but a lot of fun, and is a rare Indian to serve orange wine." - Sejal Sukhadwala
