

10

"When it finally opened in mid‑April, Little Uluh proved to be an offshoot of Uluh serving Asian‑leaning breakfast, brunch and dinner that reflect a passion for tea culture. The bright, cheery interior is sparsely decorated apart from a spray of colorful artificial flowers on a back wall; although it looks fast casual, uniformed waiters take orders (with a touchscreen option up front). During my visit the crowd skewed young—high schoolers and college students—drawn to an updated diner menu divided into ten sections, including bites, burgers, pastas and a Japanese pancake and souffle program. Sandwich highlights include a large, luscious burger ($16) with a five‑ounce patty seared (not smashed), caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms, lettuce, tomato and a mayo‑based dressing that oozes onto the plate, and a garlic chicken burger on the same seeded bun, fried and slathered with a sweet garlic glaze and juicy slaw; sandwiches come with a smattering of fries. Pancake offerings range from a rather prosaic prosciutto pancake ($17), where the cured ham is simply placed on top, to brown sugar boba pancakes ($16) that feature tapioca pearls in a thick syrup cascading down the sides. The avocado toast ($12) includes a worthwhile lotus chip, while a roasted vegetable salad strikes me as underdressed and stingy on roasted squash and cheese. Among the pastas, spaghetti with mushrooms, arugula and a soft‑shell crab ($22) is simple and delicious. The Japanese souffle section is perhaps the biggest draw—flavors like honeycomb caramel, matcha and strawberry—and the waiter warns it will take about 15 minutes; the Little Uluh souffle I had was a turban of puffed‑up egg, sweet but not too sweet, decorated with cream, a tiny scoop of vanilla and jam, like something one might have for tea in Alice in Wonderland." - Robert Sietsema