"That would be the new trattoria from the Bacchus group (Spruce, the Village Pub, etc.), in that swanky new development over in Potrero Hill, next door to sourdough donuts and English muffin burgers. I swung in with a chef friend on a Monday night, and it’s a pretty dining room filled with moody blues and geometric tiled floors. We dug into the pillowy pizza and lemony spaghetti, and both agreed the pollo al mattone was the winner. That little chicken was brined until juicy, stripped of essential bones, and flattened to within an inch of her life, to crisp up every conceivable inch of skin. She arrives swimming in her own juices, with a couple of sweet cipollini onions and pops of briny capers." - Dianne de Guzman
