
4

"Conjuring a dim, intimate Seoul hangout, the space pairs high ceilings and a generous layout with ornate traditional decor and a dash of industrial cool, a look that mirrors an approach to Korean cuisine that feels familiar but undeniably new. A trio of kimchi arrives in small golden bowls—regal, elegant, and properly fermented and piquant—while the kitchen is still buttoning up a few seasonings and sauces. From the menu, the golden-brown truffle potato jeon eats like a dreamy latke, its ultra-crispy disc of carbs covered with bacon, Parmesan, and truffle aioli; pork belly suyuk, slow-simmered in broth but served without the customary soup, resembles an appetizer-sized bossam; Shin Ramen–seasoned fried rice is strange but oddly tasty as naturally savory, tangy chopped kimchi contrasts with the technicolor umami of instant ramen powder; fresh salmon ssambap—seasoned white rice topped with succulent raw salmon cubes, uni, and caviar—might be unfamiliar to first-generation Koreans, but the setup still feels incredibly old school and delectable; and the pre-sliced Hojok galbi is slow-cooked and tender, laid out along the bone and served with a zingy dressed green lettuce salad. Portions aren’t as generous as in Koreatown, since things are sized for snacky sharing, so one jeon for every two people and a gim rice order per person help complete the meal; if cool young Korean Americans make this their new hangout, it might become one of the tougher tables to get in the Arts District." - Matthew Kang