"Tommy Lee’s enduring RiNo favorite puts an exuberant modern spin on regional Chinese staples in an equally high-energy dining room. While all first-timers (if there are any left) should try the cumin lamb buns, Beijing duck roll, and bone marrow–fried rice, abundant seasonal and daily specials keep regulars coming back — whether for charred cabbage with lap cheong, whipped peppercorn tofu, and umeboshi; smoked beef ribs in a peach-hoisin glaze; or heirloom melon in buttermilk sauce with smoked oysters and caviar at the reservation-only chef’s counter. The bar team is more than up to the pairing challenge the menu presents, known as they are for cocktails infused with Asian ingredients as well as a geeky selection of wines and ciders." - Eater Staff
