"Esparza was the first to write about the deep-fried shrimp tacos at the Mariscos Jalisco truck on Olympic Boulevard in 2008. He suspected it would be superlative even before trying the food when he saw owner Raul Ortega’s Mexican hometown and state — San Juan de los Lagos, Jalisco — emblazoned on the truck’s side. “If you want to find real regional cuisine, anybody who’s either shouting out their hometown, their region, or their Indigenous culture is going to be good,” he says." - Cathy Chaplin