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"A recently relaunched, purposely low-key neighborhood restaurant that the owner rebuilt after pandemic disruptions and a failed sale; still a work in progress, it surprises with warm sake as a specialty and dishes like a kale salad dressed in Calabrian kimchi Caesar, crispy purple-potato dumplings in coconut broth, and an 'OG' burger notable for its chewy, just-out-of-the-oven roll that sits between focaccia and an English muffin (with occasional touches like added bacon from the chef)." - Tammie Teclemariam