

5

"Peruvians will judge a restaurant by the quality of its canchita, and Nuyores delivers: their crunchy, salted husks give way to airy starch and are used both as a free snack and as a garnish alongside sweet yellow kernels and bulky hominy in ceviche topped with frizzled strands of aji limo. The chef, who previously ran Contento in Harlem, paints with a rainbow of South American peppers — Rocoto’s ripe, meaty flavor is rounded with beurre blanc for Peruvian potatoes served with a thick, rare tuna steak — and the playful “causa tater tot” is actually a fist-size hash brown with an equal portion of crab salad held together with just enough salsa golf and finished with a jammy quail egg. The burrowlike room, newly outfitted with dusky wall textiles and dark leather banquettes, makes it a spot where you’re happy to linger over a glass of Carménère." - Grub Street