
15
"At most Seattle omakase counters, silence is as golden as the lightbulbs cranked up to sunshine-levels. Nodding overpowers speaking, you’ll enjoy that pristine Hokkaido scallop in the privacy of your own thoughts, and the tippity-tap of a chopstick is loud enough to make you twitch. Jump-cut to: Sushi By Scratch, where the speakeasy-style dining room glows indigo, sushi chefs spew profanity, you’ll make friends with the chatty Magnolia Moms next to you, and the nigiri is topped with funky spreads like corn pudding and sourdough breadcrumbs, red beet mustard and puffed quinoa, or paste made from shrimp brains and olive oil. If that sounds like an expensive gimmick, it is—but in a city that takes raw fish so seriously, it’s nice to escape that for a night of blowtorched debauchery. One where the otoro is just as buttery as the other guys, only loaded with caramelized pineapple and brown sugar." - aimee rizzo