"When people talk about Vietnamese restaurants north of the river, they’re probably talking about somewhere in Dalston. There are just over a dozen spots making phở in the 2.4 miles up to Stoke Newington High Street but, more often than not, people are talking about ‘the big green one on the corner’. The one with the startlingly aromatic broth. The one where so-and-so had their birthday party and whatshisname got sriracha in his eye. That place, the big green one, Sông Quê. Sông Quê has been a destination since it opened in 2002 near Hoxton station. A fashionably style-less dining room that made lurid shades of green trendy long before hyperpop co-opted the colour, this is the hallmark for Vietnamese dining in London. video credit: Jake Missing photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch video credit: Jake Missing photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch video credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Come on a Wednesday lunchtime when you need to disassociate with only a bowl of restorative broth for company, or book a 20-person table for your birthday when you want a restaurant that bubbles with possibility for the night ahead. Intense white lighting has never looked as good as when it’s reflected off of a shimmering bowl of combo beef phở. A meal that starts with pungent crispy chill squid and ends with several stains is never less than perfect. Because in London, few things will ever beat the consistency of that big green place on the corner. Food Rundown photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Spicy Squid A moreish plate of fried squid isn’t the most adventurous of orders but the unashamed amount of garlic means it’s always held a firm place in our hearts. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Chargrilled Quail Split a quail between two of you and secretly wish you’d ordered one each, it’s a Sông Quê rite of passage. Beautifully chargrilled and glistening in a sweet and savoury five spice marinade, this is a must-order starter. photo credit: Karolina Wiercigroch Combo Beef Phở This steaming bowl of phở comes with all manner of beef. The steak is meant to be rare but is usually brown by the time it reaches your table, but that’s OK. It’s tender enough, as is the tripe and flank and, unlike many phởs in London, there’s a crisp and aromatic depth to its broth." - Jake Missing
