"The line for Goldee’s starts forming before sunrise, but if you show up by 9am on weekends—or a leisurely 10am on Fridays—you should be able to avoid the dreaded “sold out” signs. You’ll spend the next few hours making conversations with your line neighbors, most starting with the same question: "Do you think this line is worth it?” The unanimous answer is yes. Goldee’s nails the Texas classics—the brisket trembles with the wind, the ribs are sticky and sweet, and the turkey holds its own with the fattier cuts—but it's the curveballs that set it apart. Think smoky, lacquered pork belly or the occasional Lao sausage special flecked with lemongrass and chili. Bring a podcast and maybe some sunscreen. You’re going to be here for a while." - nicolai mccrary, kevin gray, nick rallo