"The word “nice” can sometimes have a vaguely back-handed connotation. So let’s be clear: when we say Bar Etoile, a cozy French spot in East Hollywood, is a “nice restaurant,” it’s a compliment. Everything about this stylish bistro on Western Avenue feels designed to put you at ease. It works just as well for a steak frites pop-in on the way home as it does for hanging out with a $55 bottle of cab franc for two hours while talking with the bartender about your must-watch HBO shows. photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp photo credit: Jessie Clapp Bar Etoile is a collaboration between the people behind wine shop Domaine LA and the former chef at Voodoo Vin—two places known for pouring interesting wines without pretension—so it makes sense that the restaurant takes the same approach with the classic bistro formula. Don’t expect a reinvention of haute cuisine or long-winded terroir monologues, just satisfying French-leaning food done well in a comfortable space that’s never a battle to get into. Though a horseshoe-shaped bar takes up the majority of the dining room, the compact space manages to fit seating options for different occasions. Cherry wood banquettes are ideal for snuggly dates and splitting snacky dishes like trout dip with homemade potato chips and savory gruyere tarts. Big circular booths run along the opposite wall, which is where you’ll find roommate birthdays, graphic artist engagements, and other group celebrations piling in for steak tartare and batched martinis. It’s the kind of room you can walk into whenever, with whomever, and know you’re going to have a good time and a good meal. And that’s clearly a compliment. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Clapp Cheese Tart There’s probably a more nuanced way to describe this savory starter, but we’ve told at least a dozen friends at this point to imagine "a cheesecake made from a cheese and crackers plate", and we’re sticking to that. And for the record, it’s delicious. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Trout Rillettes The dill-happy trout dip is good, but the real reason to order it is the impressive mound of salty housemade potato chips piled alongside. They’re thick, crispy, and just the right amount of oily. Don’t be afraid to ask for a second helping. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Endive Salad This is Bar Etoile’s most ambitious dish, but it doesn’t totally work. Despite the bitter endive’s best efforts, the creamy pear sauce and shards of seasoned meringue (which are more sweet than savory) push this salad into dessert territory. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Yams Much like the Sleepytime Tea Bear wearing a stocking hat, this highly seasonal dish is a cozy weather fantasy. Roasted yams are drenched in a smoky chili sauce with little crunchy pops added by chopped sweet peppers. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Caesar Beef Tartare A fan favorite from the chef’s stint at Voodoo Vin, this is essentially tartare on toast. The layer of caesar dressing in middle might read a little gimmicky, but its creamy tang works well with the rich minced steak. We also like that each slice comes cut into little squares, making it shareable for a group. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Steak Frites An ideal steak frites. The crisp shoestring fries, medium-rare beef, and herb-enriched butter tend to seep into each another as you dig in, making each bite more decadent (and messier) than the last. And considering it’s enough food for two, its a solid value at $44." - Brant Cox
