Ali
Google
My visit to 74 Charlotte Street by Ben Murphy delivered refined cooking and thoughtful service in Fitzrovia's elegant dining room. The space balances sophistication with comfort, creating an inviting atmosphere suited to both celebration and conversation.
The meal began with milk bread served alongside pumpkin seed hummus and noisette butter. The butter arrived as a perfect cube, its brown butter richness complementing the bread's soft texture and setting a strong opening tone.
The fish and chips taco proved to be one of the most playful dishes of the night. Cod tempura sat within a taco construction, paired with chip emulsion, pickled cabbage and sauce vierge. This demonstrated technical skill while maintaining fun. The textures worked together, with crisp tempura contrasting against creamy emulsion.
I ordered the eggs and soldiers without the usual bacon, keeping the butternut element. The dish arrived well-balanced, showcasing quality ingredients prepared with care. The presentation was clean, and the flavours delivered comfort without heaviness.
The bluefin tuna starter combined ponzu, apple and radish. This provided freshness and clarity. The ponzu brought acidity that lifted the tuna, while the apple and radish added crunch and subtle sweetness. The combination felt considered and light.
My companion chose the squab pigeon with burnt orange, turnip and timut pepper. He found the dish satisfying, with the bird cooked properly and accompanying elements adding depth without overwhelming the main ingredient.
For mains, the BBQ monkfish arrived with vin jaune, coco beans and mussels. The presentation showed care and attention. The monkfish received praise for its cooking, with gentle smokiness running through the dish. The sauce did not fully convince my companion, though the fish itself remained the highlight.
Ben prepared a beef dish specifically for me, incorporating quince and parsnip to accommodate my halal requirements. This personal touch demonstrated flexibility and consideration. The beef was tender, and sweet notes from the quince balanced the earthiness of the parsnip. The dish felt complete and intentional rather than an afterthought.
Sides included a mixed leaf salad with ponzu and crispy leek, providing freshness between richer courses. Ben's peri peri chips deserved their own mention. They carried heat without aggression, with seasoning that enhanced rather than masked the potato.
My companion selected the soufflé for dessert but found the alcohol content too prominent. I chose the chocolate tart with hazelnut and praline. The tart delivered richness balanced by the nuttiness of hazelnut, while praline added textural contrast. The chocolate was deep without being cloying.
Throughout the evening, I enjoyed mocktails crafted with attention. The barman created one specifically for me, adapting to my preferences. The Shirley Wallbanger, made with Lyre's London dry spirit, vanilla syrup and orange juice, brought tangy sweetness with length. Both drinks showed that non-alcoholic options could carry complexity and interest.
Service remained consistently strong. Elvira provided attentive care without intrusion, reading the table well and timing courses appropriately. Her knowledge of the menu helped guide choices, and her warmth added to the experience.
Meeting Ben Murphy proved a highlight. He took time to discuss the menu and showed genuine interest in ensuring my dietary needs were met. This personal engagement elevated the visit beyond simply dining out.
74 Charlotte Street operates with confidence. The cooking shows technical ability married to thoughtful flavour combinations. The venue provides a setting that feels special without being stuffy. For those seeking refined cooking in central London, this restaurant merits consideration. The accommodation of dietary requirements without compromise on quality or creativity speaks to the kitchen's capability and approach.
