Steph C.
Yelp
I accidentally ate at Pêche two nights in a row during a five-day trip to New Orleans. While that was not a move I would've planned, I at least really liked the restaurant.
I walked in on the first night to meet friends who were already there, not realizing that the dinner I had lined up for the next night was also at Pêche. I guess the place is fun and centrally located with good food and cocktails, a natural pick for nearby conference attendees.
The restaurant was lovely, a seafood grill in a cool old Warehouse District building on Magazine Street. The dining room was spacious and attractively appointed, lots of brick and rustic wood, and colorful art on green-painted walls. The vibe was busy and festive, ideal for a group dinner. Service was great, attentive and accommodating. I was part of a party of two that grew into four, then a party of eight that shrank to six, with dietary restrictions and the constant stream of needs that come from large tables. Our servers managed us competently.
I tried three cocktails over the course of two nights, as well as a glass of rosé, which went well with the seafood and warm weather. The cocktails were delightful, all classic drinks with a Pêche twist. The Mother of Pearl was a briny, boozy martini made with gin, vodka, and dill; the Chamomile Circuit a whiskey sour with chamomile tea and grapefruit; and the Angry Pirate a classic mai tai made with pepita orgeat.
The food was fantastic. We went heavy on the smaller dishes, all large enough to share, and I ended up trying most of the menu. (This was definitely the right strategy, minus the back-to-back timing.) My favorites were the hushpuppies, the crab claws, the crab rice, the steak tartare, and the baked drum.
The hushpuppies were just right, brown and crispy with a smooth crumb, served with soft butter. The crab claws were delicious, small and meaty, swimming in a flavorful pool of chili vinegar and mint. The crab rice was richly flavorful, fluffy rice and sweet crab with coconut, pickled red onion, and cucumber. I loved the steak tartare, silky raw beef on grilled bread, with shaved cucumber, herbs, pepper flakes, and oyster aioli. We ordered the baked drum both nights, the second time at my urging. It was the only entrée we shared, and it was a worthy centerpiece for two consecutive dinners: a beautiful fish with peas and artichoke in a brothy sauce redolent with saffron, a thick slice of crusty bread for dipping in the sauce.
Pêche is a seafood joint, so that is mostly what we ordered. Plump gulf shrimp with lemon and cocktail sauce, a dark, hearty seafood gumbo. A couple of things tasted slightly off--the tuna crudo with cucumber, ponzu, and nori, as well as the fish sticks with Urban South beer batter. I did like the shrimp toast with sesame and pickles, though it was more deep fried than expected. I didn't care for the crab capellini with chili butter and basil, as the pasta was oddly limp, but I enjoyed the spicy ground shrimp and noodles, a fun spin on a bolognese.
The vegetable game was strong, too. Brussels sprouts came charred and tender, with chili vinegar and slivers of red onion. Crispy okra was deep fried, tempura style, and served with a cilantro dipping sauce. The tomato salad was light and refreshing, with cucumber and cured egg. And finally, I dug the stewy field peas with bacon and green onions.
We tried two desserts and while both were good, there was a clear winner. I liked the key lime pie with buttermilk chantilly and crème anglaise, but the carrot sticky toffee pudding was outstanding. A warm, gooey dark cake with cream cheese ice cream and candied pecan.
Pêche is a really nice restaurant, and I had a blast sharing two wonderful meals with friends. If I lived in New Orleans, I'd be looking forward to my third visit.
