Albert T.
Yelp
We decided to visit A Ma Chicken Rice for a weekday lunch right when the opened. We arrived just a couple of minutes after 11 and somehow there were already 3 tables occupied! We weren't entirely sure how the order process works, so we sat down at the table and pulled up the QR code ordering system before the waitress came over and took our order in person. I guess both ways are fine with them.
When there's only 7 main items on the menu, it has to be good. We ended up ordering one rice dish and one noodle dish. Much like hawker stalls in SE Asia, the food seems like it's all precooked in the morning and all they have to do during service is assemble the plates. It's almost like fast food, so it takes 5 minutes or less to come out.
Combo Chicken Rice ($21) - Starting with the sides: firstly, there's a quick pickled mix of cabbage and thinly sliced cucumber. It's on the sweet side, but is also tangy and gives plenty of crunch. Next to that are two dipping sauce. The first seems like a mixture of sriracha, fish sauce and aromatics, leaning more heavily towards the ginger. It first starts with a heavily fish saucy flavors, then a mild spiciness starts to build. There's another sauce next door that seems to be a hoisin sauce mixed with similar aromatics, very savory, salty, and gingery.
To the right of that is a bowl of broth. The menu calls it a "light broth." While it's certainly lighter in color, the flavor is a distinctively heavy umami, but not exceptionally salty. It's like a light vegetable broth, possibly enhanced with chicken powder, with a heaping spoonful of msg crystals mixed in. It's one of the most savory things I've eaten recently, albeit not especially chicken-forward in flavor.
Onto the main plate, where there's firstly a light salad of mixed greens with thick cut cucumber. It's a refreshing side for what comes next: a mound of some of the best rice and chicken one could ask for. The combo comes with both types of chicken. The crispy is the lesser of the two. It's fried in a lightly crisp batter which seems to be rice flour based. The chicken meat is pounded flat in some areas, but still has thickness in others, resulting in a somewhat uneven fry. It's dry in general, but the flat portions are especially tough to chew. If I had ordered solely the fried chicken, I would have been underwhelmed.
The poached chicken, on the other hand, is literally perfect. It's moist, succulent, juicy, tender, silky smooth, with no hint of dry or tough meat. The skin is excellently rendered, making it gelatinous, slippery and bouncy, but not chewy at all. It's so chickeny in flavor. Words cannot describe how enamored I am with this chicken.
And yet with how perfect the poached chicken is, it's not even the best item on the plate! The rice, glistening and shimmering with chicken fat, has the perfect sticky, bitey, yet soft, fatty, yet not oily, mouthfeel. Flavorwise, it's fragrant and lightly aromatic with garlic and ginger. It's one of the most rich, yet not heavy, rice dishes that I've had in a while.
Based on the somewhat mediocrity of the crispy chicken, the classic chicken set is where it's at. The poached chicken/chicken rice is honestly better than any Hainanese Chicken Rice I've eaten, including in Singapore and Hong Kong (although, as a disclaimer, I don't have that many under my belt to begin with). (5/5)
Kuy Teav ($19) - I can't say I've had this dish before. It's really reminiscent of pho, but with a lighter broth base and different meats on top. The rice noodles are cooked perfectly, firm and bouncy, albeit served in a bit of an enmeshed mess at the bottom of the bowl, necessitating the use of a chopstick in each hand to untangle. There's plenty of meat placed on top - enough so that the noodles can't be seen through it. It's a creative mix of beefy and bouncy meat balls, sweet and tender shrimp, thinly sliced fatty pork, small balls of ground pork, pasty, gritty, and irony pork liver, and chewy pork heart. Lots of different textures and flavors to chew through. The broth is salty and somewhat savory, although not nearly as concentrated umami as the side broth that comes with the rice dishes. I'd say it's a bit more vegetable-forward vs. meaty and doesn't really have the rich taste of roasted chicken or pork bones. Still plenty savory and a joy to sip on!
On the side, the noodles come with a plate of fresh bean sprouts, jalapenos, and a lime wedge. Interestingly, they cut the bean sprouts into more manageable sections to eat instead of leaving them whole. This does make it a bit harder to transfer them to the broth though! (5/5)
A Ma Chicken Rice does get crowded as the day goes on. We walked past the shop again at around 12:30 and there were a couple of people waiting outside for seats.
Overall I found the food be to be outstanding. This is a must revisit anytime I'm in Redmond. It's solidly in my top 10 favorite restaurants of the year so far.
Bathrooms - One unisex room