Fredrik S.
Yelp
We turned onto the dead-end street Kronobergsgatan, the facades on the houses giving nothing away about a restaurant apart from the obvious "AG" neon sign. After what qualifies almost as a minor search for the right entrance we found it and inside was one from the staff greeting us. It was an immediate turn to the right, down a couple of steps and then into a small corridor arriving at a circular stairwell with one of those classic gate-closing elevators in the middle located in many old buildings around Stockholm. It really presented a sensational feeling. The walls were covered with square white tiles more reminiscent of old 80's bathroom tiles than anything else. On the second floor the noise became a bit more clearer and the busy restaurant opened up. Walking in you immediately notice the meat-fridge with huge cuts of dried meat hanging on enormous hooks. Next to this beautiful scenery of meat was tempered wine-cabinets filled to the brim with hundreds upon hundreds of bottles. To our left was the bar, on the walls same white bathroom-tiles, partially worn-down concrete floor, and a large gathering of people enjoying bar dishes, beers, wines, and cocktails. As we had arrived a bit early, we started off with a couple of cocktails enjoying the atmosphere at the bar. Well seated at our table, we began going over the menu. The decor around the dining area is an interesting blend of contemporary, industrial and a bit artistically 'out there'. On the walls there were small shelves that each had different objects of art, perhaps the most eye-catching piece would be the obvious dildo. But if anything, it's creates a topic of conversation which is what art should do!
Our waitress was really friendly, going over that nights special cuts available and always attentive and never obtrusive. I can assure you, picking dishes from this menu wasn't by any means easy, too much appeared too good. We were rapidly served toasted bread and "butter" (actually cured pigs fat that was utterly delicious!). I love these new spin on things that brings something new to the overall experience. In the end I settled for the entrée of seared foie gras with orange-glaced endive, while some other had vendace rye from Piteå served with smetana, white onion and toast Melba or grilled lightly smoked bacon. My foie gras had a great sear, creamy center and the bitterness of the endive with the orange-glaze was perfect. I had a sweet white wine (a dessert-wine, actually) to the entrée per recommendation of the waitress due to the delicacy of the foie gras. She nailed it. One at our table discovered a bit of cork in his wine, but as soon as he pointed it out it was swiftly taken care of without any fuss from the staff. Nicely handled!
For main course, I eventually decided on their Victoria Selected 300 grams entrecote. This was served with crispy baked potato with salty garlic-butter, baked and semi-dried tomatoes with chives, and salad with Parmesan. When the food was brought to the table, the only thing on the plate was the actual cut of meat. All the other dishes came as side orders. It felt like the meat was the hero, to let it shine on its own accord. And by every graces of the world, if the meat is as good as this was, it should be presented like that. I had ordered mine medium rare and this was to the very core a perfect medium rare. Charred and lightly crisp outside with enough spices, pink outer rim and a ruby red center. The potato was delish with its flavorsome butter, the salad great with that perfect balance of aged Parmesan, flavorsome tomatoes and a Bearnaise sauce in tune with both onion sweetness and vinegar acidity. Some others at our table also enjoyed a red wine braised oxtail with pappardelle, marrow of ox and truffle from the island of Gotland. They said it was incredibly tender with great flavors. The wine choice for the main I hadn't been able to take my eyes off a particular bottle; Ribera del Duero/Emilio Moro "Malleolus" from 2011. Said and done, I ordered this wine and shared it with two more at the table. It was an amazing bottle, no doubt about it.
For the dessert I had a cloud berry sorbet with donuts and a variant of punch. Interesting, a bit experimental and I loved the flavor combinations. As I still had red wine left from the Malleolus I opted out of the dessert wine and enjoyed what was left of my red together with a good cup of coffee. My friend Linda ordered a peanut parfait with chocolate and cherry sorbet. However, not keen on cherries she asked if it could be substituted with something else. Said and done, once again without fuss, they changed it for a vanilla sorbet. I just love the way serving- and kitchen staff accommodates customers like this, it's so very appreciated and brings a whole other dimension to the dining experience!
In closing words, AG's is a near perfect dining extravaganza worthy of both praise, flavors, and value of money. I will wholeheartedly recommend paying this place a visit!
