Phinda Forest Lodge offers stunning, spacious rooms with glass walls nestled in nature, exceptional service, and unforgettable safari experiences.
andBeyond Phinda Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu Natal, 3936, South Africa Get directions
"Why book? One of South Africa’s oldest private game reserves, Phinda Private Game Reserve is a 74,000-acre protected wilderness area with lush, undulating mountains, rivers, woodland, and vleis. A three-hour drive north of Durban, it’s one of the most prestigious and successful wildlife areas in the region, which has been hard hit by poaching. There are many andBeyond lodges (six) to choose from here, but Phinda Forest Lodge might be the most unique. Located within 2,471 acres of one of the oldest and last-remaining sand forests in Africa, the very location is probably unlike anywhere you’ve ever stayed before. It’s also the latest lodge to undergo an entire revamp, with 16 free-standing wood and glass-encased suites that have been entirely reimagined, as well as a new library and pool. Set the scene Like most safari experiences, the rhythm of the day is dictated by twice-daily game drives. The timing of these is rigid (unless you book your own vehicle), which isn’t a big issue because the drives commence in the morning and evening; generally when animal activity is at its highest. Beyond scouring for lions, leopards, and elephants, there’s plenty else to do: Hop on an e-bike, head for a guided bush walk, visit a Zulu village or check out the work andBeyond has been doing with the local communities and the Africa Foundation. Of course, hanging around camp is an enticing option too: Hit the gym, have a spa treatment, or laze by the pool where the animals swing by for an afternoon drink. Children of all ages are welcome (though they aren’t all allowed on the vehicles) and there are loads of kid’s activities as well as babysitters so parents can enjoy a child-free dinner or drive. One of the more adventurous activities is heading to the coast, a short drive away, where guests can witness turtles hatching in Sodwana Bay. How often do you get to see sea turtles on a bush safari? The backstory andBeyond is one of the most recognized hospitality brands on the continent (and now in other parts of the world), but this is where it all began. First launched in 1991 within the creation of Phinda (KwaZulu Natal’s first private game reserve), it was founded upon rehabilitating farmland such as pineapple fields and cattle ranches that had once been home to wildlife. The brand started with 32,311 acres, which was rehabilitated into a protected wilderness area, and has now grown to 73,800 acres crawling with big cats and other species. The rooms Tucked within a sea of towering Lebombo Wattles and Torchwood trees, the stilted, standalone, glass-fronted rooms feel like giant tree houses. Responsible for the interiors is Fox Browne Creative, a studio that’s worked on some of the finest lodges across the continent. They’ve brought their signature contemporary style and created slick, masculine rooms that have dark-wood frames, forest-green curtains, woven rugs, and raffia pendant lamps. The bathroom has a giant oval bathtub that faces the forest (where no one can see in), and there’s a shaded private deck with a daybed, ideal for an afternoon snooze. If you’re lucky, you might spot a red duiker or suni, which are native to the forest and meander around camp. Food and drink You may be surprised to find bao buns or peanut noodles on the menu, until you learn that the chef Benjamin Wicks spent time in Asia where he picked up loads of flavors and techniques. Breakfast is usually a bit more traditional, with plates of eggs and elaborate, tiered food stands with an array of goodies ranging from hunks of cheese to slivers of salmon and slices of watermelon. Lunch and dinner usually steer Asian, except for boma nights when dinner is served in the boma area with tables set in the sand around a fire and the menu is a South African extravaganza; chefs grill boerewors (local sausage), chicken, and steak over the open fire. There’s also an abundance of local things to try, from chakalaka (tomato relish) to samp (made from corn). The spa With so much else to do, the spa area isn’t somewhere you’ll linger—but if you can squeeze in a treatment, definitely do. There are only two treatment rooms, so book in advance. The spa menu is concise, with a selection of massages and wraps using Healing Earth oils. The service The team, which is mostly from KwaZulu Natal, is generally warm, welcoming and thoughtful. When I mentioned one rainy afternoon that I was craving a hot bath, I later returned to my room to find a warm tub billowing with bubbles. Some of the more senior staff have been there for two decades, while a few others are part of a youth training program, where kids from surrounding areas with employment opportunities are low are given an opportunity to gain hands-on experience. The guide team is young but incredibly knowledgeable. Though my guide had only been guiding for under two years, I really couldn’t fault her. Eco effort Considering that Phinda is rewilded farmland and that conservation is a big focus for andBeyond, eco efforts are at the core. For the lodge itself, the designers worked with most of the existing structures (the bones of the rooms are all original) to minimize impact on the environment. Experiences are all rooted in conservation or community–whether it’s walking or driving through the bush and learning about the flora and fauna or visiting one of the nearby villages. Accessibility The lodge isn’t wheelchair accessible, so anyone who may need that should rather book at Phinda Zuka, Phinda Homestead, or Phinda Mountain, which are all wheelchair-friendly. Anything left to mention? If you have a specific interest, like birding, book a private guide. While the guides do a great job at trying to accommodate everyone’s interest, inevitably, you won’t be able to do whatever you want. This also goes for people who prefer to not share their holiday with others, as you do stop for coffee and sundowners (and have dinner at the boma) with the other guests on your vehicle. If you love meeting people however, then sharing a vehicle can be a really fun experience and you’ll likely go home with a few new numbers in your phone." - Mary Holland
"When it first opened with a clutch of light-footprint, glass-walled hideaways, andBeyond Phinda Forest Lodge was considered revolutionary in its design. It also drew attention to a tract of critically endangered ancient sand forest within the reserve, home to two rare antelope, the suni and red duiker. Currently undergoing a reinvention, the new-look Forest Lodge has bigger, airier suites, including a new family suite, and modern safari must-haves like a state-of-the-art gym. Highlights of guided drives and walks, led by graduates of the renowned on-site ranger training school, include reliable cheetah and rhino sightings along with large elephant and buffalo herds migrating across the reserve. Few reserves in Africa have the biodiversity and habitat diversity Phinda Private Game Reserve offers or its long list of conservation successes and commitment to working closely with neighboring communities through the Africa Foundation. A bold restoration project on community-owned land in the heart of Zululand, this is where andBeyond’s visionary “care of the land, wildlife and people” impact model was born. Some 74,000 acres of farming land have been reclaimed for wildlife, including endangered black and white rhinos, elephants, cheetahs, lions, and elusive creatures like Temminck’s pangolins. Guests can sponsor and experience conservation in action, from rhino notching to elephant collaring, or visit a Zulu village for an immersive cultural experience. From $840." - Jennifer Flowers
"Phinda Forest Lodge, one of six properties on the reserve, reopens after an extensive refurbishment, with a new family suite and a reimagined pool, in December 2023."
"andBeyond Phinda Forest Lodge was considered revolutionary in its design. Currently undergoing a reinvention, the new-look Forest Lodge has bigger, airier suites, including a new family suite, and modern safari must-haves like a state-of-the-art gym." - Jane Broughton
Dan Wintz
Frederic3006
diann j
Jennifer De La Torre
Chris J
Candice Bottcher
Derek S
Mario de Sousa
