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If Bali has a fancier restaurant than Apéritif, we haven’t found it. NB, as part of the Viceroy Hotel, this place has the only helicopter pad we’ve seen.
Notice also Art Deco motifs merging with a colonial fantasy of Bali in the 1930s, when it was still ruled by the Dutch. Black and white tiles are typical of the era, okay, but the pattern also alludes to Balinese Hinduism, which acknowledges good and evil as equal parts of life, and life works best when in balance.
We reserved an early table to take advantage of ambient light before sunset, but it was hardly necessary. Apéritif is well lit to feature the extraordinary cuisine. This is fine dining with nothing held back.
The menu follows the phases of the moon, and all the plates are also shaped like the moon. The staff are marvelously well-trained and in typical Balinese style willing at all times to pause and explain what’s going on.
The wine collection is world-class, and considering transportation and taxes, prices are very reasonable, but after a couple of fascinating cocktails that blended classic expressions with Balinese accents, we chose the wine pairing, which was magnificent, both in selections and in the pairings themselves, which were remarkably intelligent, not to mention synergetic. Sommelier Jean-Benoit Iselé has taken full advantage of APÉRETIF’s extraordinary cellar and doubtless collaborated closely with chef Nick Vanderbeeken to evoke every possible nuance.
I’m running out of words, but this experience brings to a close our quest for authentic Bali. The power of this ancient anomalous civilization, now almost completely subsumed by tourism, has been raised to pure art here at Apéritif, absent apology, but glowing with respect for the very best.